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Routes in Lover's Leap
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500 pound bomb S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ancient Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Booger Shirt Blast-Off T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Carotid Dissection S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hangover T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Lazy Monkey, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lost Wisdom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mike's Prayer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Monkey Swing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Monkies and Rosaries S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nothing but Flowers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rattlerouser S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Stupendous Traverse T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wing Ding S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wodney Wat and the Wee Wittle Warts S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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WWC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
| Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
| GPS: | 38.45877, -79.13165 |
| FA: | Eddie Begoon 1980-ish |
| Page Views: | 138 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Wyse on Feb 24, 2025 |
| Admins: | Shawn Heath, Aaron Parlier |
Description
Clip a bolt to protect the moves into the huge right-facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral until it is possible to trend right towards the crack that splits the middle of the imposing roof. There is a good hold in the roof crack with chalk XX marks on it. I unsuccessfully tried to clean it because it moves. Then I tried to wedge it firmly. It is a good hold and shouldn't come out. (If my attempt to wedge it failed, it might move.) Pull the exciting roof and climb to the top. Originally rated 5.7!!
Variation: Monkey Swing Roof Traverse (First Ascent, Kris Kline): Instead of pulling through the roof at the cracks, traverse right all the way past the roof and then climb to the top. 5.9 Finish on the anchor for Stupendous Traverse.
Direct Start, TR: Cleaned and climbed by Ben Wyse 3-7-25. Climb up some low-angle green rock to the big roof near the ground, pull the roof. Continue straight up to finish through the super fun Monkey Sing roof. 5.10+
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