North Face (Winter)

This rarely formed route ascends the center of the headwall on the north face of Donner Peak. When we climbed it, the first pitch was fat ice, second pitch was in thin, mixed condition, upper pitches were firm snow.  Ive been watching for this route to form for two seasons and this is the first time I’ve seen it in. The ice is visible from the road when it’s in  

P1: Climb the ice flow to the snow ledge. Bolted anchor (if it’s not buried). (100 feet, WI3)

P2: Mixed climbing involving thin crack torques, turf sticks and questionable gear leads you to a snow/ice ramp that eventually leads right below a diagonal rock band. Belay in cracks in the rock band when the rope runs out. (165-230 feet, M2 R, steep snow)

P3: Eventually, there is a short hidden snow ramp leading through the short overhanging wall, ascend this to the low angle snow shoulder. It’s a long ways to the first rock where you can build a solid belay. Use snow anchors or simul climb until you get to rock. (Steep Snow)

Hike to the top of the peak or descend the south side of the west ridge until a small saddle leads back to the north face. Reverse the approach to your car. 

Scope the route from the road. Park at Snowshed wall, hike to the base. See route overlay photo. 

Ice screws, nuts, hexes, single set of cams to #2, a couple of bulldogs (spectres) for turf protection.