Type: Sport, 125 ft (38 m)
GPS: 37.16893, 22.82213
FA: Remy and friends
Page Views: 54 total · 5/month
Shared By: Top Rope Hero on Feb 16, 2025
Admins: Jason Halladay, Luke Bertelsen, Loren P

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Launches up the steep, lumpy brown wall above the first section. Negotiate a step left and get settled under a short, sharp prow. Summiting this little pinnacle will be the crux. Do you take it up the wide corner? Or swing out to the overhanging face on the left? Either way, sharp, fingery moves on small, positive toes get you on top to an almost a hands-free stance. From here, long reaches and steep moves on better holds get you to the chains. Hard for the grade, unless you can swallow the pain!

FAIR WARNING (beta spoiler): The crux involves fierce, steep, one-finger pockets for your left hand. Two of them, back-to-back. If you have old-man hands (Hi!) or often have problems with your tendons, this may not be the send for you.

A quick word about extensions: Both guidebooks for Leonidio list them as separate climbs. I here honor that custom. I see on MP where alotta climbers in the American idiom skimp on the opening section, only listing the full, harder line. I'm not down with that. In Europe extensions are put in, often from the very start, not as the line proper but as a different climb altogether appealing to different climbers with a different set of skills. So? Different chains, different line. That's how I see it, and that's how I list it.

Location Suggest change

Ascends from the lower ledges. Starts under the edge of the eastern eye. Easy enough to identify the broad, open slot that is the upper crack on this one. If you find yourself lining up under some tufas in a hanging cave 30m above you, you've walked downhill too far. Name is on the wall.

Protection Suggest change

The '25 Pánjika guide has no info on number of draws and I wasn't counting; I was crying. I would....bring.........a lot.....it's a fulsome 38m tall.

The top has a connected, two-bolt anchor station with a single ring.

On extensions... Suggest change

A quick word about extensions: Both guidebooks for Leonidio list them as separate climbs. I here honor that custom. 

I see on MP where alotta climbers in the American idiom neglect to list the opening section. Opting instead to post the full--usually much harder--line. I'm not down with that. In Europe extensions are put in not as the line proper but rather as a different climb altogether. One appealing to different climbers with different skill sets, different agendas. So? Different chains, different line. That's how I see it; that's how I list it.  

Either way, don't call 'em second pitches. They'll just think you've been dropped too many times without a helmet.

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