El Bufa
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
| Type: | Sport, 140 ft (42 m) |
| GPS: | 39.65865, -0.8903 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 63 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Max Tepfer on Feb 4, 2025 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, David Riley |
Description
(not sure why it's not 'La Bufa,' but the name is clearly written in the book...) El Bufa is similar in style and quality to Tequilla Sunrise: steep, thuggy tufa wrestling capped by a vert-ish panel of the occasionally thin crimps mixed with decent shakes. It's also equally all-time.
A right kneepad is recommended and you're best off not clipping the bolt on the slab (underneath the rebar rung under La Montana Magica) as it puts the belay side of the rope directly underneath you if you whip on the opening boulder. The best place to position the belayer is just a little bit left of the Tequilla Sunrise belay alcove so that their line runs down and climber's right of the first bolt. (roughly halfway between the two rebar rungs) I scrambled in from the right as for Tequilla to get to the first bolt.
Once below the actual pitch with your belayer sorted, fight through a brief hard steep move followed by physical compression and pinches up to a thank-god no-hands behind the obvious fang. After this there are a few punchy moves, but nothing I thought was nearly as difficult as the Tequilla Sunrise crux. Eventually the angle relents and the overall difficulty of the moves tapers, but so does the quality of the rests, so expect a healthy pump by the time you're at the final boulder. Don't blow it!



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