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Cabalgando la Serpiente
5.12b/c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in La Siuranella Central
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Arròs de llamàntol S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Berrio Cabrero S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Boca Seca Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Cabalgando la Serpiente S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cavall de foc S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Colze de Nena S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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El mareao S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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El rostollaire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Estratosférica S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Festa Major del 78 (p1) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Filiprim S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gruyere S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Kun S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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La Romanof S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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La Secallona Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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La Siuranella S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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La Vileta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Mala Rampampinfla S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Memorias de una Sepia S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Si Vas Níquel Fas Tard S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tikis Mikis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
| GPS: | 41.26279, 0.93425 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 49 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Och on Dec 14, 2024 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, David Riley |
Description
Intense, sequential crimping takes you through two boulders in just the first 4 bolts. Then big moves on more classic Siurana crimps take you up 2 more bolts to a nice rest ledge and a few moves of easier climbing before the final boulder.
And while the boulders are done there's still plenty of tricky climbing to go as you quest up the dimpled black rock. A final lurch around bolt 10 finishes the hard climbing, the black rock and your belayers view of you. It leaves you at a tricky 5.11 exit across the 3 remaining well-spaced bolts on a whole new type of rock
Location
On the left side of the main prow when you arrive at the belay ledge, look for a huge dihedral/chimney with a large block wedged in and find the bolt line to the right. The first couple moves should take you to a perfect right hand 4 finger slot in the orange rock from which the first bolt can be clipped.
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