Type: Boulder, 22 ft (7 m)
GPS: 38.5419, -109.6576
FA: Jeff Mangum, 1993
Page Views: 209 total · 14/month
Shared By: Marcus St Jolie on Dec 2, 2024
Admins: slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Sheep Aware DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Start with left hand in a crack, and right hand directly right on a textured part of the otherwise slick arete. Compress up a move or two on the right, and eventually get established on a diagonal face hold. The crux involves moving past this hold to gain the juggy shelf, and can be done a few different ways, though the best beta seems to involve a meathooky pinch on the scoopy part of the arete just below the shelf. Mount the shelf, then pull some easy but airy arete moves to a tall topout.

There is also a lower start var, The Big Engine, that adds one or two more points...we started it with a left hand in the lower of the two slot-cracks or pinching the triangle just next to it, and right hand lower still on a neat little sidepull tucked under the arete, though you could probably get creative and figure something else out if that doesn't suit ya. The low start adds a few fun moves, culminating in an improbable left hand stab into the crack to link into the stand.

Four star rock quality, movement, scenery, and landing....a future classic!

Location Suggest change

North side of the large boulder maybe less than a quarter the way up to the Physics Department.

Protection Suggest change

Pads on a mostly flat landing.

Photos

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