Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 215 ft (65 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Matt Lisenby, Will Hays, Ryan Cowan|
|Page Views:||2,184 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Matt Lisenby on Sep 12, 2008|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
P1 5.12b/c: Start near a wide crack a few feet right of Weak Bosons. Clip a bolt to cross the face to the right. Follow a handcrack in a dihedral up to a diminishing left arching crack that eventually pinches to nothing. At the top of the arch get into the dihedral and try to get your breath back before the thin and technical dihedral crux - protected by some pretty small cams. A calculator and one of those brainstorm paper pads might help solve this crux. Save a yellow metolius TCU for the pod past the crux. Belay a little higher at the anchor on the ledge ~100'.
P2 5.13-: Tips & finger lock 12' up a steep, strenuous crack to an unlikely traverse to the right at the bottom of a splitter seam with some rectangular pods. Solid but small, 00 TCU(s) protect(s) the traverse. Once traversed use the arete and the crack, move up until you can get a finger into the widening seam, then square up and campus a few tips & finger locks to easier finger locking. Continue up the fingercrack through a couple of bulges to the business - a final bulge where the fingercrack leans left, gets slick, and overhangs the most. Ibuprofen is cheap, just do it. over the bulge, juke left at a flake/roof and get into the unlikely pod for a quick rest. A thin (Blue Metolius TCU) short 5.11 section is between you and the anchors. Good times!