Type: Trad, Alpine, 1150 ft (348 m), 7 pitches, Grade III
GPS: 36.55611, -118.26354
FA: Sam Fearer & Tom Sicilian, July 2024
Page Views: 91 total · 6/month
Shared By: Sam Fearer on Nov 23, 2024
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Warning Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Located on a buttress midway between Mt. Irvine and Mt. Mallory, this route ascends an obvious face and corner system for four long-ish pitches before swinging horizontal for several rope lengths of enjoyable Sierra ridge climbing. Coming at the beginning of a longer outing with heavy packs, we used the route to shuttle half of our gear up the arduous Green Pass, which separates Meysan Lake from Sky Blue Lake Basin to the west. A fun half-day adventure on average Sierra stone, in a quiet and beautiful setting. You will almost certainly be the only one climbing if you visit. 

*Although not on Mt. Irvine's larger East Buttress to the north, the nameless buttresses along this steep hillside appear as part of the same mini-massif, and seem relatively undeserving of their own page… Hence the route’s location here.
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P1: Start up base of corner and continue up to loose ledge. Move right across ledge then up blocky/loose crack on face, continuing through another large ledge and then onto a smaller ledge up and left. Belay in a small right facing corner on the face.

P2: Continue up the face above, climbing discontinuous cracks into a blocky section with a nice stance for belay. 

P3: Traverse left off the belay and pull through a small roof to join the main corner. Climb the corner until reaching a small ledge/stance to belay. 

P4: Climb corner to top and belay near ridge. 

P5-7: Follow blocky ridge via 3rd to low 5th climbing until end of ridge. 

Hike south along the Irvine/Mallory divide, descending to Meysan Lake via the "East Slopes" of Green Pass (Secor guide).

Location Suggest change

Short hike up boulders/talus from Meysan Lake into gully below route. 15 minutes or so to base of wall. 

Protection Suggest change

Double rack .2-3, single #4

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