Type: Sport, 55 ft (17 m)
GPS: 40.60394, 116.78102
FA: 小河 (Apr 2007)
Page Views: 39 total · 2/month
Shared By: Trevor Clack on Oct 19, 2024
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Start up an uneasy vertical section along a slopey jagged rail/stairstep thing. Then move to much easier slabby ground moving to the right beneath the juggy crack. Reach out to clip a bolt on the roof for safety. This route doesn't go up the crack directly, but rather moves outward and eventually to the left. Getting established is intimidating yet not too difficult (with help from a high step an a suspicious, likely placed chockstone). But moving off this around and past the roof is a tough 4-5 move sequence. A small, almost hidden undercling on the left face may be useful. Once over the roof clip another bolt then head to the anchor.

Originally this was graded 11d but that's a bit inflated, so I'm downgrading. The grade will likely change in the forthcoming updated edition of the guidebook.

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