Type: Sport, 55 ft (17 m)
GPS: 40.60394, 116.78102
FA: 家决 (Aug 2013)
Page Views: 51 total · 3/month
Shared By: Trevor Clack on Oct 19, 2024
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball
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Description Suggest change

Great climb with a heroic roof move! A moderate start to a very easy slab. Clip a bolt in the roof and turn to face the wall to prepare for a big dyno to a jug. Clip again for safety then head up a juggy crack. Make an optional knee bar rest before heading out to a thin headwall. the headwall isn't particularly hard when fresh, but you may be wiped out after the roof.

The original grade in the guidebook (and on thecrag.com) sets this at 12b, but that's far too inflated. Other 11s in the area, including the one directly to the left (return to earth 重返地球) feel harder. So I'm gonna downgrade it here on MP. The grade may change in the new guidebook (I'm told is soon to be released)

Location Suggest change

Center of the wall. Up the rightmost (of two) obvious roof cracks

Protection Suggest change

8 bolts to chains

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Photos

A view of pigeon crag from the trail. (stitched together from two photos)
A view of pigeon crag from the trail. (stitched…
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