Dropout

This excellent route climbs good waterworn rock in a large corner system just left of the MacKay
Route. However, it is usually wet until midsummer and parts of the route can sometimes be dirty
owing to the water seepage. Much to the hope and chagrin of local ice climbers, the seepage
has been known to form an impressive curtain of ice during winter months and several failed
attempts have been made to reach it. These have resulted in a number of bolted anchors out
in the middle of nowhere to the left of the route (by Perry, C. and Josephson, J., Bow Valley Rock, 2000).

1) 30 m, 5.8 Climb the corner to a ledge on the left (old bolt). Continue past a small roof toa bolt belay at a second ledge on the left.

2) 30 m, 5.9 Climb the corner above and move left with difficulty around a roof. Continue toa second roof and then step down and left to easier ground. Move up to higher ledges and a bolt belay.

3) 45 m, 5.6 Follow the corner for a few metres and then move up right on easy ground to the right of two short corners. Climb this and continue up the wall trending right to ledges. Traverse right past a shattered block and climb a short corner to broken ledges and a bolt belay.

4) 35 m, 5.8 Climb the corner above (this is about 35 m right of the main corner), to a small stance and bolt belay in a steep bay.

5) 35 m, 5.6 Climb up left to the arete and make a long traverse left back to the main corner and a bolt belay.

6) 20 m, 5.6 Follow the corner to a large overhang.

7) 45 m, 5.7 Climb round the overhang and continue up the corner until a traverse left can be made onto smooth slabs below the upper chimney. Climb the right side of the slabs to a ledge about 10 m below and right of the chimney.

8) 10 m, 5.6 Climb the slabby wall to a ledge at the base of the chimney. Belay here or continue with pitch 9.

9) 40 m, 5.9 The chimney is loose and awkward near the bottom but improves higher up. The crux section round the upper bulge is long but surprisingly well protected. Belay in a cave near the top of the chimney.

10) 45 m, 5.8 Climb the short top section of the chimney and belay high up in an easy bowl.

11) 35 m, 5.6 At the top of the bowl, a hidden ramp leads up left to a ridge (junction with Balzac).

12-13) 60 m Continue up the ridge to the top.

(excerpt from Perry, C. and Josephson, J., Bow Valley Rock, 2000)

Start about 20 m left of the prominent ramp of the MacKay Route, move up and across left and
then climb easy rock diagonally back right for about 15 m to the base of the main corner (Perry, C. and Josephson, J., Bow Valley Rock, 2000).

Dated anchor bolts on some of the pitches.