Type: Sport, 750 ft (227 m), 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: M. Whalen & D. Bartrom
Page Views: 3,613 total · 40/month
Shared By: Tom Gnyra on Sep 8, 2015
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra, Richard Rose

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Closure 2022 Details


Since this was in the old guidebook and Chris Perry has graciously accepted to share the beta (BUY HIS NEW BOOK, it's excellent! Beautifully made!). Here it is.

From the old "Banff Rock" Book, (c) Chris Perry:

This popular, multi-pitch sport route has some excellent climbing although the middle section is relatively easy and lacks interest. The climb is entirely protected by bolts and it makes a good introduction to the longer climbs. It begins up a small rib immediately left of the Fumbles gully and climbs a wide, open corner system in the upper part of the cliff (see photograph in the EEOR section).

Start on the left-hand side of the scree cone below the Fumbles gully to the right of a small rib. The first pitch is the crux and can be climbed either by moving directly over the bulge or by making a steep move left and down slightly from the bolt to gain good holds that lead up and back right into the scoop above. The latter seems easier for tall climbers and a number of extravagant grades have been assigned to the direct version past the bolt. The second pitch has some excellent slab climbing and leads up to the more broken middle section of the route where some of the pitches may be combined for a faster ascent.

Pitch 8 is awkward. The third bolt draws the climber too far left around a rib and is best left unclipped, and the crux section in the chimney is far from obvious and the bolts seem misplaced. There is a bolted pitch 9 although the obvious finish is to move left around a rib and wander off up and left on easy ground, as shown in the topo.

The bolted pitch (5.4) goes straight up above the belay past two bolts and then angles over to the left past two more bolts to a fixed station below easy terrain.

Extra care is necessary near the top not to dislodge loose rock, particularly using the former finish.

Descent Use the alternative descent route from EEOR (see next section) that drops down from the ridge and joins the approach trail just below Spud Crag. It is possible to rappel the route with a single 50 m rope but this is not recommended. Not only is the climb often congested with parties trying to make upward progress, but retrieving the rope is likely to generate rockfall.


The left side of the huge gully. You can see the feature from the road.


about 20 QDs and a sport rack. No trad gear required. A 70m rope makes for easy linking