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The Plume: Even Pigs Like Beak'n (The White Crack)
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Warbonnet Peak
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Black Elk T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blue Bonnet T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Brown Cow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Col du Ane T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Drop of a hat... T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Feather Buttress T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Golden Eagle Feathers T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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I Think I'm Lost V2-3 5+ |
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Northeast Face, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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our route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C0-1 PG13 |
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Plume: Broken Arrow, NE Face, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Plume: Even Pigs Like Beak'n (The White Crack), The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Roof of Tears T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Smegma V0 4 |
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Weather Or Not... T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Who's On First T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 42.76202, -109.216 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 66 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Nick M on Sep 11, 2024 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Description
Fun shorter route low on The Plume. Mixed protection, fixed anchors, rappel. Named after a certain person, holding an uninformed and negative view on the use of manually-placed fixed protection, was appeased by the use of beaks during the route's establishment.
P1: 5.11, nice steep face in black streak, belay on right. Draws, 20m.
P2: 5.10+, tricky face moves to left-facing corner crack, then tricky topout to small grassy ledge. Draws + single rack, 20m. Can link from P1, consider hauling rack up from mid-anchor.
P3: 5.9, high clip then hard left across slab ramp. Up & left to large sloping ledge, belay to the left at your feet. Draw + half rack, 30m. Protect the follower with pro when first arrive at ledge. Optional: skip P1-3 by scrambling up from talus cone below & left.
P4: 5.11-, straight up through steep bulge on sidepulls to a stance, then left across 5.10- slab and up at arete. Draws + optional low piece, 20m.
P5: 5.11, long money pitch, the White Crack. Step left into left facing corner, then up the long pitch following the crack as it crosses through a juggy white dike. Shallow changing corners-style crux layback down low, then another crux up higher where it seams out. Not sustained, many rests, but long and with some tricky sections. Save a piece or two of gear for the very top. Belay well up and left after topout wall. Many draws + single rack, 58m. Optional belay stances around mid-way, or fixed belay around 37m.
Descent: Rappel 2x 60m easiest to bottom of P5, but likely possible with 1x 70m from the above-mentioned 37m optional fixed belay to bottom of P5. With 1x 60m, rap from top anchor to roughly halfway and create nut-bolt anchor. Once at bottom of P5, two easy raps with 1x 60m. The last is down climber's left on ledges to talus; don't reverse P1-3.
Location
Low on the NE face Warbonnet (The Plume) above Arrowhead Lake. Black streaks and right-angling white crack on small headwall. Starts on a featured black streak where the climber's trail from Arrowhead Lake towards the west (climber's) variant of Jackass Pass meets the wall. 200m or so left and down from the Roof of Tears corner.
Photos
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