All Locations > Wyoming > Wind River Range > Cirque of the T… > Warbonnet Peak

feather buttress

Name: feather buttress
Rating: 3.6

5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British R

Routes in Warbonnet Peak

L › R R › L A › Z

	Black Elk T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Blue Bonnet T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Brown Cow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Col du Ane T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Drop of a hat... T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	feather buttress T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
	Golden Eagle Feathers T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
	Northeast Face, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	our route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C0-1 PG13
	Plume: Broken Arrow, NE Face, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Roof of Tears T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Smegma V0 4
	Weather Or Not... T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Who's On First T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type:	Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA:	fowler/lowe
Page Views:	13,330 total · 86/month
Shared By:	Cor on Sep 10, 2010
Admins:	Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

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Description

this route up the north face is black elk's brother. just as hard (i thought) and the feather crest pitch at the top...wow!

Location

on the north face seen from your cirque camp.
hike up the scree to the base. follow slab/ramp to the only real left facing dihedral system on the north face. follow that up to it's top, then veer right and up to another shorter left facing dihedral. from there wander up to the top and climb the runout feather crest pitch (which is nice and narrow, but not hard.) a few traversing pitchs across the top bring you to the backside walkoff down towards sundance pinicale. cut through the notch towards the trail and arrowhead lake, and back around into the cirque.

Protection

it says in a book to follow the leftfacing dihedral system, and standard rack. the dihedral system is a fat crack/squeeze/chimney. take up to a #6 camalot, or run it out like we did. . .