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Routes in Warbonnet Peak

Black Elk T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brown Cow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Col du Ane T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Drop of a hat... T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Northeast Face, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plume: Broken Arrow, NE Face, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Roof of Tears T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Un-named T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Weather Or Not... T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Who's On First T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
feather buttress T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
our route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C0-1 PG13
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1100 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Eric Beck, Steve Roper, 1962
Page Views: 3,582 total · 49/month
Shared By: Kevin D. on Sep 6, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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A nice route on the imposing NE face of Warbonnet. Beware of loose rock, both on the approach and on the route itself. The views of the Cirque from the summit are spectacular.


Approach via the northern gully leading to the saddle between The Plume and Warbonnet. There was still snow/ice in the gully in late August, but it can be avoided by 3rd-4th class on either side. Beware of loose rock on the approach, which turned out to be longer than we expected. It is also possible to make the approach from the other side of The Plume.

To descend, head down the moderate slope south towards Sundance Pinnacle, following a faint trail where possible, until you reach the low point between Warbonnet and Sundance. Here you go left through talus until you reach the climber's pass trail back to the Cirque.


Standard rack up to 3".


geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
FA: Eric Beck, Steve Roper, 1962. It doesn't look like Roper was too wild about TWR, this is the only FA there of his I have found, but I could easily have missed one. Mar 13, 2018

More About Northeast Face, Left