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Northeast Face, Left
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.3 from 9
votes
Routes in Warbonnet Peak
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Black Elk T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blue Bonnet T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Brown Cow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Col du Ane T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Drop of a hat... T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Feather Buttress T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Golden Eagle Feathers T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Northeast Face, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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our route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C0-1 PG13 |
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Plume: Broken Arrow, NE Face, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Roof of Tears T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Smegma V0 4 |
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Weather Or Not... T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Who's On First T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1100 ft (333 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Eric Beck, Steve Roper, 1962 |
| Page Views: | 5,850 total · 40/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Dale on Sep 6, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
A nice route on the imposing NE face of Warbonnet. Beware of loose rock, both on the approach and on the route itself. The views of the Cirque from the summit are spectacular.
Location
Approach via the northern gully leading to the saddle between The Plume and Warbonnet. There was still snow/ice in the gully in late August, but it can be avoided by 3rd-4th class on either side. Beware of loose rock on the approach, which turned out to be longer than we expected. It is also possible to make the approach from the other side of The Plume.
To descend, head down the moderate slope south towards Sundance Pinnacle, following a faint trail where possible, until you reach the low point between Warbonnet and Sundance. Here you go left through talus until you reach the climber's pass trail back to the Cirque.
To descend, head down the moderate slope south towards Sundance Pinnacle, following a faint trail where possible, until you reach the low point between Warbonnet and Sundance. Here you go left through talus until you reach the climber's pass trail back to the Cirque.
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