Avg: 3.6 from 8 votes
Routes in Warbonnet Peak
|Black Elk T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Brown Cow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Col du Ane T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Drop of a hat... T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Northeast Face, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Plume: Broken Arrow, NE Face, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Roof of Tears T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Un-named T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Weather Or Not... T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Who's On First T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|feather buttress T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R|
|our route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C0-1 PG13|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Toby G, and Nate Ballinger 2003 Minor variations added by other party in 2012|
|Page Views:||4,132 total, 64/month|
|Shared By:||nbrown on Aug 31, 2012|
DescriptionThis is in my opinion easily one of the best long routes in the area. There is a good mix of climbing involved, from the fantastic splitter hand cracks down low, to some fun face moves in the middle, and the phenomenal diagonal corner up high.
When we went up this thing in 2012, we thought that it was a new line and ended up placing two 2-bolt anchors on the line as we climbed it (see comments below). Toby and I spoke recently and I seems that my partners and I added a minor variation to the already existing line (listed below).
P-1 The first part of the pitch serves as the start for two other climbs that are both undocumented. One of them is old and the other is relatively new. Climb the low angle corner/ramp up moderate and somewhat chossy 5th class up to a point at which the rock greatly improves. Continue up an excellent splitter hand crack (right of the also splitter dihedral crack) to a ledge up and right at about the 190' mark. 5.8
P-2 Two variations here:
A. The original finger crack by Toby and Nate is to the left and climbs to the ledge/alcove and beyond. They belayed somewhere up higher in the chimney. I cannot verify the quality or difficulty but he reports it as 5.11b.
B. The way we did it was very cool. It climbs the obvious splitter hand crack, just to the right, through a couple of bulges and a thin finger crack section just below the ledge/alcove. 5.10+/5.11a
P-3 Climb the short but excellent chimney with a perfect hand/finger sized crack for pro. From stance at the top, move up and right to a small stance and belay. 5.10-
P-4 Climb up around the right side of the flake via easy wide crack to ledge below a left angling undercling flake. Move out this to a lieback and then back up and right to a 2 bolt anchor on the ledge. 5.9+ Note: This is apparently where the original ascent continued past the current anchor to belay further right.
- P-3 and 4 can easily be combined with some long slings.
P-5 Two variations possible:
A. Climb out right and then follow the right facing flake and cracks to the good ledge below the diagonal corner. This is the original ascent.
B. After doing the original pitch - unbeknownst to us - we felt we'd found a better way up (arguably): Move right to the first ramp/corner and up an easy runout to another right facing flake/hand crack that leads to a chockstone belay below a bolt. (or #5). 5.8 Climb another short pitch past the bolt to left facing corner. Climb it to the same good ledge and a 2 bolt belay. 5.10
P-7 Climb out right to the right diagonaling crack/seam. Follow this funky and balancy feature to a stance at the base of a phenomenal corner. Follow this to a small belay stance where the corer changes directions. 5.11
P-8 Climb the right facing corner through a roof and to a nice grassy ledge. 5.10
- Pitch 7 and 8 could be combined (just make sure the second is solid at the crux because they'll be out of sight)
P-9 & 10 Climb the remainder of the moderate corners to the top. Seams and Dreams apparently merges in somewhere in this section. 5.8ish