Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Bryan Law, George Ridgley, and Steve Rathbun, August 2009 & July 2012 |
Page Views: | 3 total · 1/month |
Shared By: | Bryan Law on Sep 9, 2024 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Mad Gnome follows a prominent black streak on the first pitch and a series of discontinuous features on the second and third pitches. See photo-topo for route details. Pitch 1 was first climbed by Bryan and Steve in August of 2009 and pitches 2 and 3 by Bryan and George in July of 2012.
Pitch 1: Start below the left side of the black streak and climb past a few horizontal cracks that accept gear and a bolt. Continue up the face on beautiful knobs past six more bolts to a stance with a 2-bolt anchor with chains. The rock quality is sooo good. If doing just the first pitch, bring 1 ea. cams 0.75” – 2.5”. (5.8, 7 lead bolts plus gear, ~125’)
Pitch 2: Climb above the left side of the anchor and past features and a bolt to a stance with a 2-bolt anchor with chains. (5.7, 1 lead bolt plus gear, ~105’)
Pitch 3: Climb up and slightly to the right above the anchor and then continue past features and a bolt to a 2-bolt anchor with chains at the top of the wall. (5.6, 1 lead bolt plus gear, ~120’)
Three rappels with two ropes to the base or walk off.
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