Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches
FA: Bryan Law, George Ridgley, and Steve Rathbun, August 2009 & July 2012
Page Views: 3 total · 1/month
Shared By: Bryan Law on Sep 9, 2024
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

Mad Gnome follows a prominent black streak on the first pitch and a series of discontinuous features on the second and third pitches. See photo-topo for route details. Pitch 1 was first climbed by Bryan and Steve in August of 2009 and pitches 2 and 3 by Bryan and George in July of 2012.

Pitch 1:  Start below the left side of the black streak and climb past a few horizontal cracks that accept gear and a bolt. Continue up the face on beautiful knobs past six more bolts to a stance with a 2-bolt anchor with chains. The rock quality is sooo good.  If doing just the first pitch, bring 1 ea. cams 0.75” – 2.5”. (5.8, 7 lead bolts plus gear, ~125’)

Pitch 2:  Climb above the left side of the anchor and past features and a bolt to a stance with a 2-bolt anchor with chains. (5.7, 1 lead bolt plus gear, ~105’)

Pitch 3:  Climb up and slightly to the right above the anchor and then continue past features and a bolt to a 2-bolt anchor with chains at the top of the wall. (5.6, 1 lead bolt plus gear, ~120’)

Three rappels with two ropes to the base or walk off.

Protection Suggest change

7 lead bolts on pitch 1
1 lead bolt on pitches 2 and 3
Cams 2 ea. 0.75” – 2.5”, 1 ea. 3.5”

Photos

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