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Elevation: 9,425 ft 2,873 m
GPS: 37.85179, -119.42603
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 32 total · 16/month
Shared By: Bryan Law on Sep 7, 2024
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Warning Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

West Farthing Wall is the west-facing wall south of, and up and right of Medlicott Dome. The name of the wall comes from J. R. R. Tolkien’s fantasy novels The Hobbit and The Lord of the Rings, in which West Farthing is the western part of the Shire, an area inhabited by hobbits. Many of the route names in the Mariuolumne-Medlicott area are part of a recurring theme and are based on or borrowed from Tolkien’s writing. The theme started with the route Hobbit Book on Mariuolumne Dome, first climbed by Charlie Raymond and Gordon Webster in 1965.

A dozen routes were established on the wall in the early ‘70s and early ‘80s but are seldom climbed due to their “run-out” character and old, rusty 1/4” bolts. In July of 2009, Nomad (5.9) was climbed, the first of the new routes on the wall, and by late 2012, 19 new routes had been added to West Farthing.

It’s a beautiful setting with clean slabs and flat grassy areas along the base and fantastic views down canyon towards Tenaya Lake and west towards Mt. Hoffmann and Tuolumne Peak. Upon reaching the summit of the wall, climbers are rewarded with great views of Cathedral Peak and Eichorn Pinnacle, the Echo Peaks, and Lower Cathedral Lake. The wall gets sun around late morning and stays in the sun until sunset. For those who don’t enjoy an abundance of sunshine, it’s often warm in the middle of summer, especially without a breeze. Climbing in October and November can be quite pleasant, provided the sun’s out and it’s not super windy.

The rock quality is excellent across much of the lower half of the wall, particularly in the center and on the right side. Climbing features include knobs, small edges on gold polish, shallow corners and thin flakes, horizontal cracks, and the occasional overlap/small roof. Some sections of slab lack features and require one to resort to friction climbing. There are some sections along the uppermost part of the wall where rock quality is moderate at best and there are detached blocks near the top of the wall in a few locations although they can be avoided. See route descriptions for more details. West Farthing is pretty high up on the fun-factor scale but probably won’t become as popular as Dozier, due to the longer approach hike with more elevation gain.

All new routes were established ground-up, and bolt holes were hand-drilled while on lead. Many of the new bolts are 3/8” although several new 1/4” bolts still remain. Some new routes are protected entirely by bolts and others require cams and nuts in addition to bolts. Almost all bolted belays on new routes have chains or rings.  Old routes are sparsely protected by old 1/4” bolts and gear, including a few fixed pitons.

Note that the old routes Kryptonite, Master Samwise, and Three Stooges are drawn inaccurately or in the wrong location on the photo on page 188 in the 2006 Reid & Falkenstein guidebook (4th edition). See photo topos below for the location of routes on the wall.

Please do not thread your rope through the chains/rings on any of the belay anchors to set up a top-rope. This unnecessarily wears out belay anchor hardware and it is poor form. Chains/rings are strictly for rappelling. Clip your own gear directly to the bolt hangers to set up a top-rope, preferably under the quick-links/rings. Thanks

Getting There Suggest change

Approach:  Park at the main parking area for Medlicott Dome and follow the approach trail up to the Bachar/Yerian area of Medlicott. Once at the base of the dome, continue to the south along the base (towards climber’s right) and follow the fisherman’s trail that goes to Lower Cathedral Lake.  At the south end of Medlicott, West Farthing becomes visible. Turn left and head east, out of the trees and up an open slab, then continue east through another section of trees to the final approach slab. Depending on which part of the wall one intends to climb, veer left or right up the final approach slab. See photos and Google Earth image with approach line drawn in red. Approach time is approximately 45 minutes.

Descent:  All new routes except for the second pitch of Dude, Where’s My Car? and the third pitch of Wizards and Dragons are set up for rappel with either one or two ropes. See route descriptions for specific details. Or, it’s possible to walk off to the south (climber’s right) towards Lower Cathedral Lake and back to the base of the wall. Walking off to the north (climber’s left) is another option but the descent is steeper and requires some minor route-finding. The south walk-off is easier and is recommended. Old routes are not set up for rappel and require a walk-off.

19 Total Climbs

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