Inside Passage
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British R
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV |
| GPS: | 58.53196, -134.48283 |
| FA: | August, 2024 Clay James, Brandon Kupczyk, Sammo Cohen |
| Page Views: | 66 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | S.Cohen on Sep 7, 2024 · Updates |
| Admins: | L Von Dommelheimer |
Description
The towers are a wild place to climb! If you have spent time up there you know what I mean. If you haven't, don't expect the perfect, consistent stone of the High Sierra but, one thing you can count on for sure are making some great memories to look back on down the road.
P1 5.10+ Negotiate the moat crossing into a SPLITTER left facing corner that quickly transitions into a mega right facing corner passing two roofs. The first one with hands and the second with fingers. Really good pitch on perfect rock! One of the better pitches we climbed on the towers. Belay on small but good ledge. 20m
P2 5.9+ Climb off of the belay into steep layback. Pull through layback up overhanging surfboard feature into wide slot and top out the slot. Step right on small ledge and find gear before traversing the slab. Continue traverse to alcove and set belay on good ledge. 20m
P3 5.6R Climb out left through blocky terrain with minimal gear. Once you gain site of the money dihedral above punch it up through some more moderate but runout terrain to the base of the left facing corner. 30m
P4 5.10+ Truly a great pitch. Climb up the wild corner with stems and interesting moves until the corner tapers to fingers. Top the corner and face climb up a body length before reaching out left into an awesome face splitter! Follow this crack up a ways to another great belay ledge. 5 Star pitch! 40m
P5 5.9 Climb the "Trough Pitch" that is wide and mossy. Climbs pretty decent for what it's worth. Long pitch that will gain another great ledge at the base of a left facing corner. 50m
P6 5.10 Similar style pitch to pitch 4 but not quite as good but still quality climbing. Set a hanging belay near the top of the corner or link into pitch 7 which we didn't do but that would be a great move. 25m
P7 5.10+ Climb out the corner on face holds up and left into a .75 crack. Pull a couple of tricky moves to get established in the crack and punch up to big ledge beneath final headwall. 35m
P8 Climb obvious wide splitter on great stone until it tapers down to fingers. Large tombstone block that seemed scary but we couldn't get it to fall so I guess it's good to go..? If you're scared to pull on it you can do a face traverse that is fairly tricky and goes at something more like 5.11. Ramble on through more climbing until you find a good belay near the summit! 60m
Option 2 is another crack system to the climbers right in the darker corner. One member of our team climbed this and felt it was 5.11ish climbing.
Location
This route lies in the center of the main wall. Look for the obvious splitter right facing corner first pitch. The moat could end up being one of the cruxes depending on snow conditions. When we did it you had to do a "falling bridge" type of move in which you basically lean from the snow until you hit the wall. Throw in a cam and get on the wall!



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