Franken Squirrel
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 44.14699, -107.25785 |
| FA: | Alli Rainey 2003 |
| Page Views: | 86 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Maher on Sep 3, 2024 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Once obscure and rarely climbed, this route has been recently cleaned and with traffic will prove to be a fantastic, long, and adventurous addition to the crag. The movement and unique crack features are a memorable and fun challenge.
The first section is crack climbing on good finger locks with some feet on the face. This section is four bolts long and is shared with Phillip McCrevice (12b). After the fourth bolt, Franken Squirrel makes a thin traverse left for a bolt length. The 12b continues straight up.
After this traverse, continue 5 bolts up a separate, slightly easier crack system with more finger locks and a few jugs. After this, a final three bolts head up a bit of slab before a final roof bulge that looks harder than it is. Juggy pockets and incut flakes abound on the headwall.
Location
Right between the Sector D'or et Bleu and the Shinto sectors. From the Sector D'or et Bleu, the trail goes along the base of the wall and gets closest to the wall just before going up a small hill towards the Shinto routes. This route and Phillip McCrevice (12a/b) start on a obvious juggy horn at chest height, right on the approach trail, at the base of a tall crack.



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