Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
GPS: 44.14699, -107.25785
FA: Alli Rainey 2003
Page Views: 86 total · 5/month
Shared By: Josh Maher on Sep 3, 2024
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

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Description Suggest change

Once obscure and rarely climbed, this route has been recently cleaned and with traffic will prove to be a fantastic, long, and adventurous addition to the crag. The movement and unique crack features are a memorable and fun challenge.

The first section is crack climbing on good finger locks with some feet on the face. This section is four bolts long and is shared with Phillip McCrevice (12b). After the fourth bolt, Franken Squirrel makes a thin traverse left for a bolt length. The 12b continues straight up.

After this traverse, continue 5 bolts up a separate, slightly easier crack system with more finger locks and a few jugs. After this, a final three bolts head up a bit of slab before a final roof bulge that looks harder than it is. Juggy pockets and incut flakes abound on the headwall.

Location Suggest change

Right between the Sector D'or et Bleu and the Shinto sectors. From the Sector D'or et Bleu, the trail goes along the base of the wall and gets closest to the wall just before going up a small hill towards the Shinto routes. This route and Phillip McCrevice (12a/b) start on a obvious juggy horn at chest height, right on the approach trail, at the base of a tall crack. 

Protection Suggest change

14 Bolts. Anchor is an open-shut and a leaver biner.

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