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Routes in Sector D'or et Bleu

Buck-n-Spin S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Doomsday S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Galactic Emperor S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Pussytoes S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sky Pilot S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Tutu Man S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Who the F@&% is Jedediah? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zen Garden S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Hardware: Alli Rainey F.A. Jonathan Siegrist
Page Views: 1,091 total, 17/month
Shared By: Jonathan Siegrist on Jul 11, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

A mega thin boulder problem on a variety of edges guards the route's first jug at the 3rd bolt. From here, work your way through a couple bolts of nice 5.11 terrain before the angle lowers off and you're treated (or bothered) with 50 more feet of sub 5.10.

A cool little boulder of a route- a nice big brother rig to Rosy Pussytoes. Burl! Would be at least 3 stars if not for the long, easy and dirty finish.

Named after my long awaited and much enjoyed first experience riding a mechanical bull in the streets of Tensleep on July 4th, 2012.

Location

Labeled an open project in Aaron Huey's most recent guidebook. Just around the corner from Tutu Man, left of a bouldery 12c.

Protection

13 QD's to a fixed anchor.

Photos

Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
Mike Snyder   Cody, WY  
This was most likely a route installed by Matt Wendling or Alli Rainy as they and Charlie Kardalef bolted most lines there during the 2002 and 2003 season. Not sure why neither of them climbed it. Glad to see it was finally sent. Nice work Jstar. Jul 17, 2012
Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
 
Jonathan Siegrist   his truck
 
Would be nice to add a lower anchor- I think it would definitely increase the traffic (and add a star)... there's just too much 5.9, filthy terrain above, that isn't worth cleaning because the angle is so low, it will always be dirty. I'll add a lower anchor hopefully in August.

Bottom is cleaned up... This is fun! and hard! try it!!!! Jul 11, 2012