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Routes in Sector D'or et Bleu

Buck-n-Spin S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Doomsday S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Galactic Emperor S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Pussytoes S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sky Pilot S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Tutu Man S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Who the F@&% is Jedediah? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zen Garden S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Matt Wendling
Page Views: 6,525 total, 62/month
Shared By: Jonathan Siegrist on Apr 5, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

This is a brilliant climb. Incredible, streaked stone, difficult and enjoyable movement, plus it's 100% natural. The crux lies right off the ground- undercling to mono and snatch a crimp, then a moderate rest is followed by a full on rose move to two finger pocket, unwind.. awesome. Continue without rest into pumpy 13- climbing to the chains.

Location

THE LINE. Right up the gut of perhaps the most beautiful wall at Tensleep. A *hard* blank project to its left.

Protection

8 QD's, stick-clip is nice.

Photos

Philip Lutz
Bishop, California
  5.13d
Philip Lutz   Bishop, California
  5.13d
Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
Mike Snyder   Cody, WY  
No 'Rose' move on Sky Pilot, however there is one on Esplanada right after the third clip. May 15, 2016
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
As you should, starting to sound like Logan? Oct 8, 2012
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
I can't think of a better word than "brilliant" to describe this line. On par with any of the best hard sport routes in America.

Since I'm bored at work, one small nitpick for the sake of preserving history: Although I'm sure there is no official definition, I don't think the cross move qualifies as a 'full on rose move'. "Rose Move" comes from the classic Buoux route "La Rose et Le Vampire". Here is what a Rose Move looks like:



I suppose its possible that a really short person may need to do an honest-to-god Rose Move (or a regular-sized person could contrive one), but I think most people will just do a big cross as in the pic I posted. Whatever, its a rad move either way!

(I feel dirty whining about this) Oct 4, 2012