Gérémaide

This has all the aspects of a classic at the grade. The climbing is consistent at the grade throughout each pitch, the rock quality is fantastic, the belays are all great, the venue overlooking the d'Orsay and Trient Glacier is hard to beat, and the summit is quite nice.

P1: (5b) Climb up a pillar-type feature a short way.

P2: (5c+) Traverse left and then move up the corner. 

Var1+2: (6a) This variation skips P1 and P2. Scramble up and left to reach the base of a left-facing corner. Thoughtful climbing using the corner, and the slab leads upward until you can step left onto a more featured face. Continue up to the comfy belay. 

P3: (6a) Continue up on great face climbing. I expected the good climbing to stop and there to be more 4 climbing when you join the ridge. However, there is good face climbing until you pull onto the ledge near the belay. 

P4: (3a) Move up and right on easy ground. Establish the belay on a nice ledge. 

P5: (6a) *Please add did not climb this.

P6: (5c) *Please add did not climb this.

P7: (3c) *Please add did not climb this.

Variation 5+6: (6a, 5c) This variation runs parallel to the normal route for two pitches and skips pitches 5, 6, and 7. Both were fantastic face-climbing nearly entirely on bolts. 

Traverse along the arete to move belay to the base of the tower. 

P8: (6a) Money pitch. Scramble up lower-angle terrain until you move out and right onto a left-facing slab -- great climbing. Climb up to the base of a large roof section that looks much harder than the grade. Then, move out right under and around the roof on awesome holds. Then, climb up an exposed arete to the next anchor. 

P9: (5c) Climb up in an amazing position on a beautiful rock to reach the summit. 

Descent: From the summit, rappel 25 m to reach a steep trail with cairns leading to the base of the route.

Starts at the lowest part base of Aiguille d'Orny. See photos for the view from the base of the 6a variation. 

#0.3-#1, 10 draws (12 draws if you plan to do Variation5)