Fenrir

Fenrir, or Fenris Wolf, was the son of Loki and Angrboda, the mother of monsters. Fenrir was once friend to the gods. This was forever altered when Odin dreamed that his death would be dealt by Fenrir, and had the wolf bound by Gleipnir, magical unbreakbale bonds forged by dwarves. Fenrir will break free from Gleipnir at Ragnarok. 

1,500 feet of climbing up the beautiful East Wall of Mt Loki joins about 3,000 feet of alpine ridge rambling up the SE Ridge. Remarkable that nothing had been climbed on the East Wall before this route. We fixed three pitches, then pushed to Loki's summit the next day. One of the most memorable days of climbing of my life.

The route could certainly go clean without too much fussing. Perhaps worth going for it to not have to carry hammers up the ridge.

Fenrir could potentially go free at 5.12+ or so. The first couple pitches were led free on the FA. Miles followed the rest of the East Wall on micro.

Pitch 1: 5.11-, 220 feet

Climb into and up the glorious fingers to hand crack in the left facing corner. Anchor on a ledge. A five star pitch. A bit of easy simuling if using a 60m rope.

Pitch 2: 5.10, 170 feet

Continue up the beautiful corner of golden edges to perfect hands. A classic pitch anywhere in the world.There is a killer ledge atop the pillar, it would even make a great bivy ledge if so desired.

The corner of pitches 3 and 4 is sometimes wet.

Pitch 3: 5.11-, 170 feet

Face traverse left into a nice 11- finger crack splitter. Climb up into a left facing corner with a brief wide section, then continue up the corner to another great stance.

Variation: A3, step right out of the corner and follow a beak seam to the same stance.

Pitch 4: 5.11 or A2, 140 feet

Continue up the corner then traverse left into a hands to wide crack. Forge upwards to a stance in the crack. Anchor is 1 bolt and a 5" cam.

Pitch 5: 5.10 A2, 190 feet, "Gleipnir"

Trend right on golden edges to a beautiful podded splitter that cuts up the headwall. Glory.

Pitch 6: 5.10 or A1, 200 feet

Shallow corners give way to a chossy ramp that cuts right.

Pitch 7-8, 5.8, 400 feet

Continue around and under the left side of the overhanging East Wall summit bulge. 

Join the Nettle-Shelton SE Ridge. What follows is a rough recollection of what we found:

1500 feet of mostly 4th class and some low fifth.

300 feet of low fifth that starts with a step left on slab.

5.10 climbing for a couple hundred feet following beautiful orange splitters on an exposed face up the middle turret. Absolute glory.

700 feet of 5.6 keeping true to the ridge. Way fun.

300 feet of alpine 5.9 trending right of the ridge to Loki's stunning summit. 

Must be one of the most remarkable summits on Earth. You may think I'm exaggerating. Go see for yourself.

Rappel the SW Buttress Kiwi Route in 13 60m rappels. Bring extra tat and widgets. The glacier below Loki is notorious for dangerous crevasses.

OR, for a true Ridge Extravaganza Experience, kick moderation to the curb and descend the West Ridge. Looks epic.

East Wall

Double cams to BD #3
Single cams to BD #5
Nuts work well in pods
A few large beaks
Hooks