Wombat Wrastlin'

Wombat Wrastlin' follows a mixed line of face climbing and natural features up the main face of the Wombat. It intersects with Santiam Hwy. Ledges during Pitch 3, but continues up and left for the fourth pitch for a more direct finish to the wall. 

Start the route two different ways. The original route took the right hand bolted line and goes at 5.11b. A variation was added to keep the route more moderate that starts on the Deffenbaugh Flake, and continues up to the first pitch anchors shared with the 5.11 variation. 

Pitch 1 - 5.10b or 5.11b:

Climb the Deffenbaugh Flake and continue up 8 bolts to the bolted anchor (5.10b). This crack is fairly wide and protects well with a single BD #3 and #4, walking the #4 up a bit as you go.

Or, start 60 ft down and right on the 5.11b variation. This variation is entirely bolted and starts on a slight overhang to a funky stemmy feature. After the first 4 bolts you pull onto a ledge. From the ledge climb through the crux section for 4 or 5 bolts. Then you will gain pocketed fun featured 5.10 climbing to the anchors with another minor crux near the finish.

Pitches 1 and 2 can be linked via either variation with a 70m rope. If you plan on doing this, you may need to back clean some draws, or bring more than 20. Manage your rope drag wisely. This is a very fun way to climb the route.

(35m - Gear to 4 inches and 10 or 18 bolts)

Pitch 2 - 5.10a:

A 5.10a crux move off the belay leads to easier climbing. Finish on an easy ramp following the bolt line as you gain the main corner system.

(30m - 12 bolts)

Pitch 3 - 5.10c:

The mostly traditional pitch. Climb past a single bolt and a small roof to get into the small seam. It's easier than it looks from the belay if you remember to stem. The crack gradually gets bigger working its way through all the sizes until it gets to hand sized. Break out right past a slight overhang and two bolts that get you to a small ledge. Catch your breath, and tackle the crux of the pitch 5.10c. Reaching the first finger lock can be a bit height dependent, so it's a little easier for tall folks, harder for short folks. After couple of fun fingery undercling moves with smeary feet leftwards out the horizontal roof the meat of the pitch is over. Join Santiam Highway Ledges for the short easy squeeze chimney section until the bolted anchor.

(35m - gear to 1" and 5 bolts)

Pitch 4 - 5.10d: 

From the belay move up and left through some dirty chossy blocks. You may want to bring a couple of medium sized cams to protect this section even though it is easy climbing. A BD #1 and 0.75 works well. Climb up onto the ledge and see your first bolt at head height. Climb the crux section through slightly overhanging terrain and fun positive hueco like holds for about 5 bolts. Spectacularly fun exposure! Savor the entirety of the Wombat sweeping out below you! Follow the bolts left through some poor rock and through another mini roof crux. Pull through this and gain the summit ridge bolted anchor. Congrats!

(25m - 0.75" and 1" cams and 12 bolts

Descent:

Finish on Santiam Hwy. Ledges and walk off.

Or,

The route can be rappelled with a single 70m rope. From the top of pitch 4, rappel straight down and slightly left of the route. You will make 4 total rappels with a single 70m rope which will get you back to the base of the Wombat at the bottom of the route, The Mile Stone

Start on the Deffenbaugh Flake, or 60 ft. to the right.

Quickdraws and a single rack of gear up to 4 inches