Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Bill Cummins, John Marshall, Jim Nieland, 1969. F.F.A Jeff Thomas, Brian Holcomb. Oct 5, 1984
Page Views: 1,236 total · 22/month
Shared By: Derrick Peppers on May 19, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

9 Opinions

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If you are excited about an adventurous route at smith, This route will not dissapoint. The climbing is easy and the rock and pro is reasonable considering the location. Route finding would probably be the hardest part of the climb but even that shouldn't be a problem if you've done adventurous climbs before.
Pitch 1- third class scrambling leads to a large 20 foot wide ledge with anchors on the ground next to the edge where you step out of the alcove.
Pitch 2- 5.8 on questionable rock. once you clip that first bolt, shoot straight up to the next ledge 20' up and look right for bolted anchors.
Pitch 3- 5.10a, go to the bolt line on the far right side of the ledge. Follow questionable rock up a solid bolt line and turn a corner joining a crack heading up to the dihedral above. Expect to use gear in between bolts that are about 20' spaced higher up. follow the crack all the way to a large ledge where the thumb is. anchors on left. Unavoidable rope drag on this pitch. minimize with alpine slings on the lower and upper sections.
(detour)- climb the thumb. It's worth it.
pitch 4- 5.7 unexposed move to a cool gully protected on both sides. continue up the path of least resistance to the first false summit. there are anchors at the top but it's easy to solo and mostly unexposed.
Pitch 5- this is a very long and sometimes very exposed 4th class traverse across several peaks until you reach the true summit with new rap anchors that take you a short distance down the back side to the ground. expect this traverse to be the most exposed part of the whole day and one of the highlights of the climb.(not for the inexperienced)
To get back Walk off north along the cliff band to a small pass and cut downhill back to the start. Have fun!!!


This route should be studied via topos such as those found in Alan Watts 2010 falcon guide book to be certain of your location. There are a lot of routes surrounding this route that would be bad to get lost on.


Gear to 3". I used a single rack to 3" and still had plenty of gear left over.


Mitch Jacky
Portland, OR
  5.10a R
Mitch Jacky   Portland, OR
  5.10a R
Hands down the most adventurous endeavor I have ever undertaken. We hiked up Burma Trail in 100° Temps with gallons of water. The first route was a small scramble to the belay spot of a 5.9 at the top of which was a bolted anchor and a single hangar. This is the belay spot for the 5.10a (do not do this route in the hottest part of the summer day unless you want to know what dying feels like). Starting here, walk around the ledge to the start of some fun climbing with little crimps, side pulls, and pockets. Make it up to the stout hand and finger crack which is bolted at the start and then transitions to gear. This turns into an off-width sort of thing for a few moves. All in all it is pretty spicy! At the next belay spot you will see a bolted anchor. The real treat is a small 25 foot spire which you can lead (pro at the bottom, no pro until you reach the top bolted anchors) and make sure you stand up and see the breathtaking view! The next pitch is a simple slab climb which starts on pockets, and you might as well free solo as it is simple. The next few bits of the journey will be scrambles on dirty rock until you get to the first minor summit. Then you make the harrowing trek along the ridge (you can solo if you want, but ropes really help with the nerves even if the runouts make the rope next to useless). When you get through all of this you will see Smith from one of the highest vantage points in the park! So transcendentally beautiful, especially if you top out at sunset! You can rap off from the anchors, walk down and around your left and make it back to the start! Aug 15, 2016
Adam McFadden
Portland, OR
Adam McFadden   Portland, OR
Great adventure climb for anyone not afraid of some choss.

Finding the route:
  • Follow the approach for Koala Rock all the way up to the rock. It should pop you out near Suck my Kiss.
  • From here head uphill towards The Wombat.
  • Keep going on this trail until you see a deep ledge with a large alcove.
  • Find the third class scramble onto this ledge that starts higher up the hill, and scramble to the first set of anchors.

  • 1st pitch - 3rd class scramble, natural pro if you want it, but it's quite easy.
  • 2nd pitch - all bolts
  • 3rd pitch - 10-12 bolts (don't remember exact number). There are gear opportunities from .5 - 3, but I found that 2 #1's did the trick. This pitch protected well with a 1 before the crux move, and a 1 or .75 up higher. If I go back to do this route I will likely only bring a 1 for the crux move, as the placement higher on the route is on easy territory, and the runout between bolts is only about 20 ft. Bring all the long runners that you own for this pitch, and extend as much as possible. Rope drag is going to be bad by the end. The anchors for the end of this pitch are around the corner from the last bolt, just at the start of the ledge with the thumb on it.
  • The Thumb! - Take a .5 if you want one piece of gear in for this. Go around the left side of the thumb (as you look at it from the belay anchors) to pick up the obvious line up. Be careful to avoid the large detached block near the top when belaying or rappelling.
  • 4th and 5th pitches - I think these pitches could merit an R rating for the route, as protection is sparse, and fall consequence would be high. The climbing is all 4th class except for the single 5th class move to get into the gully. There is one bolted belay station along these two pitches, coming right as the more exposed portion of the scrambling begins. A 70m rope will NOT reach from this bolted belay to the final rap anchors on the summit, so you will need to improvise a belay station if you want one.
Nov 27, 2017