Totoro Tower

Totoro Tower (route #2 on beta photo) is a very attractive and overall steep line that climbs the obvious tower located on the looker’s left ear of the “Totoro” formation. Like other multipitch routes at Ramshorn, expect sustained climbing for long pitches, only occasional rests, and nice belay ledges. 

Pitch 1: 5.10, 15 bolts, 35m. Starting at the tongue of the slab, climb sustained 5.10 chert edges to a stance in a pod. Continue out of the pod, traverse left, then back right again to a belay in a comfortable scoop. 

Pitch 2: 5.10, 15 bolts, 35m. Traverse right from the belay , then climb up towards an obvious crack system climbing just right of the bolt line. Above the crack angle up to a ledge on the left side of the orange tower. An alpine draw is handy to reduce rope drag at the traverse. 

Pitch 3: 5.10, 13 bolts, 33m. Climb the tower directly up the face. Very sustained. Once at the top of the tower, continue past a boulder on your right to a chain belay high on the wall of the next fin (anchors placed high to facilitate rope pulls when rappelling). 

Pitch 4: 5.10, 7 bolts, 20m. Step down and right to climb the crack and face to the top of the fin. A little more tricky than it looks. As there is no good belay stance at the top anchor, it's best to clip the anchors and lower back down to the previous belay. 

Descent: Rappel the route with a single 70m rope. If, for some reason, you need to descend off the back of the route, there are two bolts up and right of the final belay on the other side of the fin that can be used to exit the face. From here you can scramble off the back of the fin. 

Located on the left side of the cliff, this route starts where a tongue of slab exits the face through some greenery. Looking up you should see the pod on pitch 1, as well as the orange Totoro Tower near the skyline (see photo).

70m rope, 15 draws