Type: Sport, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dave Bingham and Joe Lavigne
Page Views: 519 total · 55/month
Shared By: zach cook on Jul 6, 2020
Admins: Eric Bluemn, Mike Engle

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

This route follows one of the longest sections of the wall, following the route just left all the way to the top, The Business of Fancy Dancing. The climbing is technical steep slab climbing with occasion steeper bulges. Good foot work makes this route go down much easier, maybe not the route for your blown out cruisers!

P1: 5.11a climb up moderate terrain to a couple of technical cruxes back to back. Follow up to bolted anchors.
P2: 5.11a more technical steep slab with some cool crack features to navigate through. belay from bolted anchor.
P3: 5.11a/b I thought this was the hardest and most sustained pitch with some challenging moves off the belay over a bulge then lessening into 5.10 terrain and back into sustained techy climbing until the anchors. Bolted anchors.
P4: 5.10d very enjoyable tachnical climbing through a bulge and cracks.
P5: 5.10c an awesome finish w/ a great view

Rap route with single 70m or do short rappel off backside with easy descent down gully to left (70m only for rapping the route!!)

Location

Look for bolts starting just right of start of The Business of Fancy Dancing. look for large leftward traversing flake up wall. Route starts up at base of this flake

Protection

bolts

Photos