Type: Trad, Alpine, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches
GPS: 37.89008, -107.56032
FA: Matt King
Page Views: 87 total · 4/month
Shared By: Matt King on Jun 8, 2024
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Logistic Details Suggest change

Like all the routes on the main buttress, you have to pick your way up the low angle slab for 40ish feet that guards the steep, overhanging walls above. From there, Pitch 1: (5.10)  Barter Town starts about 18 feet climber's left of the Nose route of the buttress formation. Follow five bolts up and left to a big ledge. From there, follow short corners and ledges to a big ledge that brings you to the base of a short but steep bolted wall and a bolted anchor. It's mostly protected by cams and some bolts to the anchor as you trend left along the buttress formation. Pitch 2 (5.11b/c) - The end is a short but steep, bolted steep wall to a nice big ledge (crux) protected by 5 bolts. Once you pull over on to the ledge from the short bolted wall, head straight back to a bolted anchor. From there, you can either belay your second person up and then climb a short really easy 5th Class section (scramble) for about 30 feet to the anchor of Road Warrior/Juice. Or you can clip that anchor to protect your second and then head up and right to the RW /Juice anchor. The gear is 5 bolts each pitch and doubles of BD cams from #0.2 to #3. Bring 60cm slings x 10 as well, since the route travels so much. The rock is good, it's still a little dirty, but for the most part, remember it's the San Juans, so there is choss mixed in. 

Getting down...I advise you bring a 70m rope and pitch it out to Road Warrior and with a **70 METER** rope rapping down the Road Warrior bolt line to the Master Blaster anchor, and rappel from there to the ground. I suggest rapping to the MB anchor so you can lead both Road Warrior and Juice while you are up there

**WHEN RAPPING FROM RW ANCHOR, YOU MUST FOLLOW THE RW BOLTS TO MB ANCHOR OR YOU WILL RAP INTO AN OVERHANG AND GET SCREWED.**

Location Suggest change

It is located 18 feet left of the buttress bolted nose feature. Follow a line of five bolts up and left to a big ledge, and there you will start climbing a series of corners and ledges that traverse left up the wall.

Protection Suggest change

Cams and 6 bolts.

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