South Pillar - Free

P1 - Start at the notch below the south pillar, trending right for the first half of the first pitch following the line of weakness and bypassing the roof above the notch. End the pitch by trending back left. 5.8

P2 - climb up and left, aiming for the large corner system to the lookers left of the pillar. This pitch could reasonably be split into two pitches. 5.10

P3-5 - Climb the long corner system to the left of the pillar. End 5th pitch at the top of the corner system when level with the ledges allowing a rightward traverse. Broken rock in corner system, climb carefully as the belays are exposed to rockfall from the leader. 5.8-9

P6 - Traverse right for half a rope length to get back on the south pillar proper. 5.7

P7- Start climbing upwards again when below the line of weakness on the pillar. High quality climbing, excellent position. 5.10a

P8 - Continue climbing the pillar for a full rope length to gain the top of the pillar and easier ground. 5.10a

P9-10ish - Climb easier ground along and to the climbers right of the ridge to gain them summit.

Grain of salt on the pitch breakdowns, we simul-climbed a fair amount of the route so the individual pitches are estimates. The key tenants are head right at the start, head back left to the big corner system, traverse back onto the pillar at the top of the corner, then climb straight up.

Descend the route, rappelling the face below the traverse until the corner system is re-entered. 

It should be noted that this free climbing variation does not climb the original south pillar aid line, but rather spends a fair portion of time in the chossy corner to the left of the pillar proper. A complete free ascent of the south pillar feature would to be a worthy objective with what looks to be adventurous climbing in a position that can't be beat, and would connect from the bottom of the corner system to the end of the P6 traverse. 

Devil Thumb, south side. Recommended approach is from the Cauldron below, using a ramp system in the rock on the west side of the south ice fall. This allows for more reliable helicopter access to a pickup/dropoff point. Or hoof it in from the coast to the same location below the south ice fall. Alternatively drop in from the upper base camp, with some overhead hazard. For both approaches navigate the upper pocket glacier to gain the lower angled rock ridge leading to the south pillar proper. There is some 5th class rock climbing on this ridge, mostly 3rd/4th class. Access to ridge will vary based on snowcover and glacier meltout status.