Thunderbolt
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
| Type: | Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 25.95085, -100.47905 |
| FA: | Greg Hughes and Patrick Ferland, January 2024 |
| Page Views: | 2,509 total · 83/month |
| Shared By: | Greg Hughes on Mar 3, 2024 · Updates |
| Admins: | Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
Approach: approx 30 minutes. Cross the riverbed just before the EPC gate and take the uphill path by the entrance to Redpoint. At the T junction go left. Look for little red arrows leading you up a well trodden path that's a mixture of scree, dust and a bit of rock hopping. Thunderbolt starts 40m left of Excalibur.
Pitch 1: Start below a steep corner. Once you have the first bolt clipped you will enter the very short crux section. Staying left in the corner is a bit tougher than going out right of the bolt. Continue up the corner climbing a variety of features. The difficulty gradually decreases as you make your way up to a good ledge and belay. If there are other parties above please belay from the station WITHOUT the rappel ring. 35 meters 13 bolts
Pitch 2: Stem and face climb your way up the beautiful corner to a large ledge and belay. If there are other parties above please belay from the station WITHOUT the rappel rings. 32 meters 13 bolts
Pitch 3: Climb up the off width corner crack using a variety of techniques. The stemming on this pitch is sublime. The intended line is left of the bolts in the corner. Going right is not advised. 18 meters 8 bolts
Pitch 4: Move slightly left off the belay then straight up a face using big holds, cracks and pockets. There is a large semi detached flake left of the bolts and while this piece of rock is stable it’s probably a good idea to avoid pulling on it. The intended line does not involve the flake. Traverse left onto a ledge then continue up another face to the last anchor below the summit. 28 meters 11 bolts
From here climb a short section of 4th class following a fixed line to the summit. This could also be pitched out and it would be possible to do a short rappel back to the p4 anchor off the quick link on the last bolt. 7 meters 3 bolts
Descent: Rap the route with a 70 meter rope.
Important note for rapping pitch 4 - make sure to rap and pull your rope on the left side (climber's left) of the big flake on pitch 4. This flake is located directly above the pitch 3 belay anchor. If you rap and pull your rope on the right side of this flake it will get stuck. Guaranteed.
The final rap to the ground is a rope stretcher. Tie knots!



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