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Routes in Zapatista Wall

3 Stone Place S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Off The Couch S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Satori S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zapatista S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 700 ft, 7 pitches, Grade II
FA: Moser, Bohm, Rhine, Cailler, & Soper - 2003
Page Views: 9,242 total, 81/month
Shared By: Robert MacKinnon on Jul 7, 2008
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco

You & This Route


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Description

P1: 5.9
P2: 5.10b
P3: 5.9
P4: 5.10b
P5: 5.10a
P6: 5.10c
P7: 5.7

This most-excellent 'moderate' seven-pitch route climbs the arete left of 3 Stone Place up to the ridge that leads up to the El Toro summit (see Scariest Ride in the Park).

Located to the left of 3 and Stone Place by ~10-15 meters.

Hike up the mining road for a couple of minutes and turn left on the trail for El Bobo. Follow the red painted arrows/dots up past El Bobo (the dunce-hat-shaped formation) and continue up the third class ridge. When you get to the red arrows pointing in different directions head right for the Zapatista route and straight for Satori (3 and Stone Place).

Protection

Bolts + anchors.
20 kN

 
20 kN    
 
Satori is one of the best climbs in EPC, and possibly the best 5.10 multipitch in the park. Dont underestimate its value just because it's not on the Jungle Wall or some mega-classic that gets climbed day in and day out. The rock quality is exceptional and the movement is quite fun. The route is quite a bit better than many other classics in EPC. Jan 12, 2017
julie.wang  
 
stay off the right side blocks for full value! Dec 20, 2016
Allen Lee
Branson, MO
 
Allen Lee   Branson, MO
 
Awesome route. 4th and 6th pitches were my favs. A little confused finding the start of the route but managed alright. Dec 15, 2016
Will P.  
Additional approach beta:

After El Bobo & the 3rd class ridge, you'll get to split with an ugly scree slope going up hill, and the red blazed trail going (climbers) left. Go left! Climb is a few minutes down the trail.

Going up the scree slope and following the fixed lines takes you to Zapatista. Apr 14, 2016
Ken Chase
Toronto, ON
Ken Chase   Toronto, ON
2nd bolt seems runout on p1, but its easier than it looks. p7, despite being 5.7 has a slightly committing move on a serious runout before the last bolt. (could use a bolt between, there's quality rock around).

Needs a new summit register (spongebob is full and also got wet) - possibly a new summit tube, it obviously let water in at some point. Bring pens too to donate, the ones there never seem to work (donated one 2 years ago). Careful rapping off the p3 belay ledge, serious gravel/loose rock around, ropes being lowered over will take a bunch with.

w/70m linkable p1+2 (hard to hear climber from belay though), 3+4, 5+6, 7 is around the arrete up a boulder stack. P3-6 are stellar, p6 is the crux where things get overhanging and awesome (10c). Feb 5, 2016
Chrissy Crushes
Boulder, CO
 
Chrissy Crushes   Boulder, CO
 
<3 this climb. Tons of fun. Do it! Apr 9, 2015
Ed Rhine  
 
As one of the FA people, I would say go ahead and move the anchors if that second pitch belay is hollow. Thanks May 12, 2012
Just a comment on the anchors on the second pitch where the ledge is. The rock is kind of hollow and fractured there. You wouldn't be opposed if someone moved the anchors over on more solid rock? Mar 3, 2011
On March 21, 2010, returned to this route 7 years after doing the FA. Led all pitches and found it in great shape. The rock is solid, and the climb is still great. Approach trail is in good shape, follow the ridge above the dunce until the trail cuts off to the left. We put up a new route which follows the first two pitches of Satori and then cuts out left for 5 beautiful pitches up to 5.11a (though once the dust gets cleaned out of the holds, it will likely be more like 5.10d). The new one is called "Off The Couch". Apr 13, 2010
Blake Summers
Park City, Utah
 
Blake Summers   Park City, Utah
 
Killer views from top of this one. Climb the arete on the crux pitch! Dec 11, 2009