Type: Trad, 85 ft (26 m)
GPS: 37.83589, -83.66614
FA: Noah Havlik
Page Views: 307 total · 11/month
Shared By: Noah Havlik on Nov 14, 2023
Admins: Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Start on the midway ledge by either rappelling or climbing up. Traverse the ledge climbers left to a dead tree and build belay. First pieces for leader are climbers right of the dead tree in horizontals (.75-#1 runner them well). Climb out and right on semi fragile jugs with a place for handsize cam (#3). Once at the lip, nest gear (#2,#3, .5 alien or equivilent) in horizontals and execute the airy crux that arcs left to a horizontal with good gear. Continue straight up the delicate face,   past several equalized small nuts and cams to the top. An onsight of this face would be bold. Pre inspection for sequences and gear recommended. Feet do not always track hands as some holds are fragile and would break underfoot. 

A real North Gorge face climbing gem. If this interests you, go check it out. It's a really fun, beautiful and exciting line! The position above the trees is unmatched. When gear is dialed, nothing seems too dangerous. See for yourself!

Location Suggest change

When rappelling into the route look for the farthest (skiers) right trees before the overlook. You can't miss it as some rowdy campers sloppily cut down one of the Persimmon trees. You can use these as an anchor to TR the route (try to not block the path with ropes). To rappel to the ledge, rap closer to nevermore and then Traverse the ledge to the base. 

Protection Suggest change

Rps, alloy offsets, Double rack from .3-3 with an extra #3 would be sufficient and you can whittle down the gear after inspection. Will post a pic of the gear I used soon.

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