Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches
GPS: 46.14728, 10.8682
FA: Marco Fontanaro and Elio Orlandi in 2002
Page Views: 285 total · 8/month
Shared By: David Kozak on Sep 11, 2023 · Updates
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Pitches 1, 2 and 3 have 5.8 territory.  Pitch 4 is not very good as it is low angle and rubbly.  Fixed anchors and some fixed gear.  Supplement with a light trad rack that includes a half dozen cams, half dozen stoppers and a dozen alpine draws.

All belays have 2 bolts and rap rings.

p1 (30m IV+ 5.5): start on IV 5.4 arete at the right side of the wide black cave. IV+ 5.5 overhang. up-right IV 5.4 slab. belay at 2 bolts with rap rings under roofs.

p2 (30m V+ 5.7): move right onto a IV+ 5.5 dihedral with a flake; up-left on V+ 5.7 (or possibly 5.8) overhang; up-right on IV 5.4 slabs; traverse left and belay at 2 bolts with rap rings.

p3 (50m V 5.6): vertical V 5.6 wall; up-right IV 5.4 slab and small dihedral; left on easy III 5.3 scramble to large ledge; belay at 2 bolts with rap rings. [Note: walk off climber left seems possible from here toward the start of Diedro Armani-Gasperini/Medaia and trail 325.]

p4 (30m III 5.3) up-right III 5.3 ramp; aim at base of long dihedral. belay at 2 bolts with rap rings.

p5 (50m V+ 5.7) long IV 5.4 dihedral; harder V+ 5.7 (or possibly 5.8) overhang; easy II 5.2 scramble in a gully. belay at 2 bolts with rap rings atop a block.

p6 (50m IV+ 5.5) IV+ 5.5 black wall & vertical crack; III 5.3 scramble aiming at SE arete. Belay left of via normale sud.

p7 (35m III 5.3) easy III 5.3 scramble

Descent:  See directions for raps in the description of Torre d'Ambiez.

TOPO posted on another site:
https://www.sassbaloss.com/immagini/tracciati_vie/torreambiez.jpg

Description posted on a good Italian website (as additional reference):
https://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/torreambiez1/torreambiez1.htm

Location Suggest change

From the description for reaching Torre d'Ambiez, the Anna route is on the arete just right of the vast chimney area.

Protection Suggest change

six cams, six stoppers, 12 alpine draws.

Photos

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