| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches |
| GPS: | 46.14728, 10.8682 |
| FA: | Marco Fontanaro and Elio Orlandi in 2002 |
| Page Views: | 285 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | David Kozak on Sep 11, 2023 · Updates |
| Admins: | Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath |
Description
Pitches 1, 2 and 3 have 5.8 territory. Pitch 4 is not very good as it is low angle and rubbly. Fixed anchors and some fixed gear. Supplement with a light trad rack that includes a half dozen cams, half dozen stoppers and a dozen alpine draws.
All belays have 2 bolts and rap rings.
p1 (30m IV+ 5.5): start on IV 5.4 arete at the right side of the wide black cave. IV+ 5.5 overhang. up-right IV 5.4 slab. belay at 2 bolts with rap rings under roofs.
p2 (30m V+ 5.7): move right onto a IV+ 5.5 dihedral with a flake; up-left on V+ 5.7 (or possibly 5.8) overhang; up-right on IV 5.4 slabs; traverse left and belay at 2 bolts with rap rings.
p3 (50m V 5.6): vertical V 5.6 wall; up-right IV 5.4 slab and small dihedral; left on easy III 5.3 scramble to large ledge; belay at 2 bolts with rap rings. [Note: walk off climber left seems possible from here toward the start of Diedro Armani-Gasperini/Medaia and trail 325.]
p4 (30m III 5.3) up-right III 5.3 ramp; aim at base of long dihedral. belay at 2 bolts with rap rings.
p5 (50m V+ 5.7) long IV 5.4 dihedral; harder V+ 5.7 (or possibly 5.8) overhang; easy II 5.2 scramble in a gully. belay at 2 bolts with rap rings atop a block.
p6 (50m IV+ 5.5) IV+ 5.5 black wall & vertical crack; III 5.3 scramble aiming at SE arete. Belay left of via normale sud.
p7 (35m III 5.3) easy III 5.3 scramble
Descent: See directions for raps in the description of Torre d'Ambiez.
TOPO posted on another site:
https://www.sassbaloss.com/immagini/tracciati_vie/torreambiez.jpg
Description posted on a good Italian website (as additional reference):
https://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/torreambiez1/torreambiez1.htm



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