East Face Direct

Climb El Progreso Ramp until you make it to a big ledge that goes left. There is a lot of vegetation in this area, so it is not easy to miss. 

This is the best recollection I could make of the whole route. Lengths are estimated; it was dark, we were making anchors wherever we could, but also because of the horrible rope drag, even with long slings, the route moves in all directions, so place your pro and extend them appropriately. 

Once at the ledge. 

Pitch 1 (20m): Traverse left, make your way into the vegetation, then climb up a small tower. You´ll find a small tree growing out of a crack at 6ft. The trunk has an old sling wrapped around with an aluminum ring. 

Pitch 2 (30m). Downclimb the tower on the opposite side, and traverse all the way until you reach the big alcove. Leave enough cam for your 2nd at the down climb. 

Pitch 3 (35m). Cool pitch with a hard crux right in the middle. climb the left-facing corner, top it out, build an anchor at the ledge, just next to a nice offwidth to fist jam crack. 

Pitch 4 (45m). Good climbing at the beginning with some semi-hard moves, follow the crack into a class 2 with lots of vegetation. Build an anchor using a tree.

Pitch 5 (35m). Another great pitch that goes right and into a roof. Build the anchor just below the roof, right in the corner. 

Pitch 6 (15m). The crux pitch. This one has multiple options: either climbing the big block or using the offwidth at the far right. If climbing the block, once on top swich to face climbing using the diagonal lines into a right-facing corner. Top it, the move right into a small ledge. 

Pitch 7 (15m). Go up the crack, then climb the chimney. At the top, build an anchor. 

Pitch 8 (20m). Get on the ledge, climb the boulder, and go up the crack. On top of the crack, go left, pass the dead tree, go on the crack until you make it to a big ledge with a big boulder in front of you. (You are almost there)

Pitch 9 (15m). This is the exit. Go toward the boulder, climb left, and down climb into an alleyway. Here, build an anchor. To exit the alleyway, climb the small rocks stacked in it. On top, head south to reach the path that takes you out of GTB.

Go out there and have fun. Just remember that climbing at GTB is a lonely and wild experience. No ASAP rescue, no help, no emergency calls, no rescue team, you are out there on your own.  

Two-thirds of the route of El Progreso Ramp. Use the picture for reference. 

70-meter rope

Cams singles from #00 to #5. 

Long slings for each pro.