El Milenio

American Alpine Journal 2000

"The Millennium" ("El Milenio")
First Ascent – May 1999
 Canyon El Tajo, Sierra Juarez, Baja California, Mexico 

By John Smallwood

El Gran Trono Blanco, "The Millennium" ("El Milenio"), Grade IV, 5.11b (or 5.10c, A1)

May 1999 brought the completion of the first new major route on El Gran Trono Blanco in a decade (see AAJ 1991, pp.189-190, J.T.Smallwood). Several years in the planning and "construction", "The Millennium" was conceived as a long free route, linking the "Happy Hooker" to the "Southeast Buttress" route with several new pitches. The result is an enjoyable and securely protected route with a 50/50 mix of crack and friction climbing. Gary Anderson and John Smallwood made the first continuous ascent on May 22,1999. The approach down the canyon along the base of the south face was a 1½ hour boulder scramble. Fifteen pitches and 9 hours later the summit of El Gran Trono Blanco was reached. The third class descent and return to the vehicle required another hour.

Belay anchors have a minimum of two 3/8" x 4" stainless steel bolts with rappel rings and most have good ledges. The tops of pitches 5, 7, and 11 have flat bivouac sites for parties choosing to overnight. For leaders who opt out of the 5.11 crux, adding a 3/8" removable bolt and a "cheater stick" to the gear rack provides the option to lead at 5.10c A1. Bring nuts and cams from small wires to 4", 1 tube chock (Big Bro), and 11 quickdraws.

Climbers who assisted with developing "The Millennium" were Andreas Met, Shaun Standley, and Monte Swann.
 Route Description: From the extreme right (east) end of the third class bench underlying the south face, begin in a left facing dihedral. Follow 5.8 cracks for two pitches. Pitch #3 leaves the "Happy Hooker" route by frictioning right, 5.10b. A good ledge is reached by continuing up and right on 5.8 friction to a short crack. Traverse right to a large flat ledge. Pitch #6, friction up to and then over a small overhang. Friction traverse left, 5.11b, then up to a good stance. Eleven bolts protect this crux pitch and an extra 3/8" hole was drilled for those needing to aid and tension traverse. Pitch #7, 5.10c friction also has eleven bolts and leads to a crack and sheltered flat ledges. Traverse right 60' then up 5.6 to a tunnel on the left. Here the route meets up with the original "Southeast Buttress" route for the next three pitches. Pitch #9 enters the tunnel and exits onto a steep face, 5.10b to a semi-hanging belay below a 5.11 (or A1) roof. Ascend the roof to a strenuous 5.10 squeeze chimney where tying off natural chockstones provides additional protection. After traversing left to a large right facing dihedral, continue up 5.9 to brushy ledges. Third class 200' to a gully on the "Happy Hooker" route. Traverse left across the gully on a fourth class ledge to its end at a 5.5 crack, staying left of the gully weakness. From the small ledge atop the crack, the new exit pitches 13 and 14 follow bolts up 5.8 friction to lower angle friction above.

John Smallwood, San Diego, CA.

Soon

12 draws, Cams full rack up to #4, Stoppers, Big bro (optional), 50m ropes are okay.