Riders on the Storm

Pitch 1: Up and leftward trending hand/fist crack leading to a large grassy ledge. 5.9

Pitch 2: Awesome splitter hand crack up to a pin anchor, somewhat short pitch. 10a

Pitch 3: Crack continues up, thinning out near the top to a thin hands/lieback. Original top suggests 11a/b, we thought it was more like 10d/11a, would logically link with pitch 2. Also quite short.

Pitch 4: Continue the crack up through the short roof. Also a short pitch. Original top suggests 11c, we thought more like 11a/b

Pitch 5: Climb parallel cracks up off the belay, mostly the left crack and using right crack as needed, stemming and jamming you way up. 11c

Pitch 6: The crux pitch: Climb out of belay through a short rooflet crack on knobs, a good rest and then enjoy splitter hands and fingers crack above. Original topo suggests anywhere from 12b-12d. We thought landed around 12a/b.

Pitch 7: Climb 10-15ft above belay and traverse rail on the left into the corner crack. 11c/d. 

Pitch 8: climb clean corner off of ramp to grassy blocks up and left, then up grassy ledge to fixed belay below chimney. 5.9

Pitch 9: Climb loose 5.10- chimney, then go right up black streaked 5.10- corner and exit left on hand crack. Ends on grassy ledge with anchor.

Pitch 10: Wander grassy ledges up and right, stopping at bolted anchor. 

Pitch 11: Continue up splitter and arete above for standard finish (5.11+) (we didn’t do this). Alternatively Continue right around corner climbing easy loose/blocky terrain to summit. 

Descent: from summit, short rappel down chimney on west side, downclimb/lead east blocks back around to east side to Don’t Panic anchors. Rappel the route. 60m double ropes. Bring tat for replacing anchors as needed, cut off and pack out old tat. 

The splitter crack system on the right side of the large dihedral on the east aspect of East Huey Spire, easily seen from camp in Fairy Meadows. 

Double rack from black totem/0.2 to #1, one #2, optional small/medium offset nuts.