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> E Huey Spire
West Ridge
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.5 from 6
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Routes in East Huey Spire
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Riders on the Storm T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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West Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Ehrin Irvin, Zachary Lesch-Huie, Jim Toman |
| Page Views: | 6,790 total · 36/month |
| Shared By: | themostdirect on Oct 18, 2009 |
| Admins: | Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: National Park Registration
Details
You must pre-register before entering Nahanni National Park Reserve to climb in the Cirque of the Unclimbables. When you leave the park, de-registration is also required.
Reservations are required for the Cirque of the Unclimbables and the Vampire Peaks areas. For more information on registration and the required form: parks.canada.ca/pn-np/nt/na…
Please visit parks.canada.ca/pn-np/nt/na… for more information on climbing.
If you have any questions, please contact Nahanni National Park Reserve at the addresses and numbers below.
Email: nahanni.info@pc.gc.ca
Phone: 1-867-695-3151
Nahanni National Park Reserve
PO Box 348
Ft Simpson, NT
X0E 0N0
Canada
Reservations are required for the Cirque of the Unclimbables and the Vampire Peaks areas. For more information on registration and the required form: parks.canada.ca/pn-np/nt/na…
Please visit parks.canada.ca/pn-np/nt/na… for more information on climbing.
If you have any questions, please contact Nahanni National Park Reserve at the addresses and numbers below.
Email: nahanni.info@pc.gc.ca
Phone: 1-867-695-3151
Nahanni National Park Reserve
PO Box 348
Ft Simpson, NT
X0E 0N0
Canada
Description
After locating the gully on the southwestern side of East Huey, start making your way up it or the moss slabs to it's left. Your goal is the eventual arrival at the notch between East and Middle Huey Spires. It may be wise to rope up for sections of this approach if the moss is wet or the gully is icy. To gain the actual start we had a few very short technical roped pitches.
P1) The beginning of the climb is easily identified as a wide easy corner at the notch. Move up this corner and continue climbing the mossy face to a small ledge. Look for a nut marking the last rap. (60m)
P2) Climb out through flakes and face trending up past a large blocky system on the left. Make your way towards a large weakness above. Note the slung horn overhead for the rap. (60m) Move belay above loose rock in the weakness to next face.
P3) Shoot up and out the fun cracks (5.9), aiming for the top and easier climbing. (60m)
P4) Easy fifth class takes you along the ridge to the summit block.
Descend the route.
P1) The beginning of the climb is easily identified as a wide easy corner at the notch. Move up this corner and continue climbing the mossy face to a small ledge. Look for a nut marking the last rap. (60m)
P2) Climb out through flakes and face trending up past a large blocky system on the left. Make your way towards a large weakness above. Note the slung horn overhead for the rap. (60m) Move belay above loose rock in the weakness to next face.
P3) Shoot up and out the fun cracks (5.9), aiming for the top and easier climbing. (60m)
P4) Easy fifth class takes you along the ridge to the summit block.
Descend the route.
Location
Head around the left side of East Huey Spire from the Meadows, shooting straight up the grassy slope once you see the opportunity to go around the tower. Avoid excessive talus hopping.
Once you reach the gully spilling out with snow you've found the start.
Once you reach the gully spilling out with snow you've found the start.
Protection
A standard alpine rack will do. Extra nuts and bail tat may be advisable. There are fixed rap stations in the gully.
The fixed stations in the gully were already in place when we climbed the route (I don't carry many pins on my alpine rack), but we found no traces of ascent or descent anywhere on the West Ridge/Face.
The fixed stations in the gully were already in place when we climbed the route (I don't carry many pins on my alpine rack), but we found no traces of ascent or descent anywhere on the West Ridge/Face.
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