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Routes in East Huey Spire

West Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ehrin Irvin, Zachary Lesch-Huie, Jim Toman
Page Views: 3,625 total · 36/month
Shared By: themostdirect on Oct 18, 2009

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5 Opinions

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After locating the gully on the southwestern side of East Huey, start making your way up it or the moss slabs to it's left. Your goal is the eventual arrival at the notch between East and Middle Huey Spires. It may be wise to rope up for sections of this approach if the moss is wet or the gully is icy. To gain the actual start we had a few very short technical roped pitches.

P1) The beginning of the climb is easily identified as a wide easy corner at the notch. Move up this corner and continue climbing the mossy face to a small ledge. Look for a nut marking the last rap. (60m)

P2) Climb out through flakes and face trending up past a large blocky system on the left. Make your way towards a large weakness above. Note the slung horn overhead for the rap. (60m) Move belay above loose rock in the weakness to next face.

P3) Shoot up and out the fun cracks (5.9), aiming for the top and easier climbing. (60m)

P4) Easy fifth class takes you along the ridge to the summit block.

Descend the route.


Head around the left side of East Huey Spire from the Meadows, shooting straight up the grassy slope once you see the opportunity to go around the tower. Avoid excessive talus hopping.

Once you reach the gully spilling out with snow you've found the start.


A standard alpine rack will do. Extra nuts and bail tat may be advisable. There are fixed rap stations in the gully.

The fixed stations in the gully were already in place when we climbed the route (I don't carry many pins on my alpine rack), but we found no traces of ascent or descent anywhere on the West Ridge/Face.


Charles Kalinsky
Whitehorse, YT
Charles Kalinsky   Whitehorse, YT
I climbed this last June. We were very lucky with weather, 4 days of sun. The views were spectacular because you are practically in the middle of the Cirque. It is alpine climbing, so do not expect clean dry solid rock. Some pitches had poor protection, especially the first face pitch out of the notch. We also found the descent the most exciting part of the climb and we stayed on the eastern side of the gully (left when looking down). Jim Toman's topo from George Bell's guide was mostly helpful. Just expect more raps than shown as the prospect of down climbing wet and loose rock was not happening. May 16, 2016
Ok, I feel obliged to comment after climbing this route. I'll give this one star for the awesome summit block and the fun initial 1000' cl.3-5 solo up the gully - which was sadly the best climbing on route. Very loose with loads of moss and mud. Stays wet for awhile after rain due to sun aspect and sheer volume of sponge-like plants on route. To compare - the worst pitch on the LFT is far better than the best pitch on the West Ridge. Be prepared for multiple stuck ropes on the low angle, block infested rappels. A great looking line from afar... Aug 6, 2015