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Spate
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Tank Peak, East Face
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Disclosure S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Disclosure (Trad variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Full Disclosure S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Full Spate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 465 ft (141 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 254 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | KrisG on Aug 21, 2023 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Spate climbs the upper half of the Ash Canyon side of Tank Peak in the Calico Hills. It starts off the upper Midway ledge about 250' to the right of the Kragle and climbs to the summit. It has a few bolts but requires trad protection on the pitches and for all but one belay.
P1, 5.8, 100', 4b: Start at the wide, low-angle, run-off corner off of the upper midway ledge. Climb up the corner (2b) to a large ledge and up another corner (#4 useful) for 15' to another large ledge. Move up and right, on white rock, towards a body-size pod with a bolt above. Continue up towards the tower reaching it on its left side above a tree. A bolted anchor is on the left/backside of the tower above a rocky ledge. Be mindful of some loose blocks as you reach the tower.
P2, 5.9, 70', 1b: Traverse in and behind the tower, stemming up and over the chocked block (bolt), to reach a shallow corner crack up the face on the left. Gear belay (#4 useful) on a ledge at the top of the corner.
P3, 5.10a, 100', 2b: Move the belay to the mouth of the cave to the right. Start up the low-angle right wall of the cave (bolt) to a ledge with a right-facing corner above. Stem and chimney up the corner (bolt) to another ledge (#4 protects below the bolt). Either belay here (#4 useful) or continue right up the low-angle corner to large pod/cave and belay.
P4, 5.9, 75', 2b: Climb out of the pod/cave and up the left-facing dihedral above (2 bolts). Watch for some loose rock on the left face near the top of the dihedral. The dihedral ends at a ledge at the base of a 10' wide notch. Good gear for a belay can be had on the second ledge heading up the notch.
P4 (alternate), 5.10a, 75', 6b: The righthand outside edge/face of the pod/cave has a detached column that forms a hand crack. Climb this for 15' and onto the face/arete above. After ~35' traverse right where the slabby face becomes vertical. Surmount the steepness on the right to a low-angle face above ending on the same ledges and gear belay as the original dihedral variation.
P5, 5.8, 70': Climb up the series of ledges in the notch formed by steep walls on either side to reach a large platform ledge about 50' below the summit. Belay in a corner in the back of the large platform ledge.
P6: Scramble ~50' to the summit.
Descent: Walk off down the gully to the southeast and then east to the midway ledges as described on the Tank Peak, East Face main page.
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