Tank Peak, East Face Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 4,604 ft | 1,403 m |
| GPS: |
36.16263, -115.43697 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 1,573 total · 47/month | |
| Shared By: | KrisG on Aug 20, 2023 | |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
The east face of Tank Peak consists of the series of steep cliffs on the Ash Canyon, Calico Basin side of Tank Peak (36.162000,-115.437506) in the Calico Hills. The area has both multipitch sport and trad. The climbs here generally start off of the upper of two large ledges that bisect the mountain, approximately where the red and white rock meet. These large ledges are referred to as the Midway ledges.
The left end of the ledge system starts immediately above the Fringe and extends to the right/northwest for about 800' to a gully (summit scramble option). These ledges consist of a lower ledge and an upper ledge running 40-100' above. On the left end, the lower ledge is the top of the Fringe and the upper ledge is the base of the Kragle. The climbs specific to Tank Peak, East Face start off of the upper Midway ledge about two-thirds of the length heading right/northwest. Midway crag starts off the lower Midway ledge also about two-thirds of the length from the left end.
There are many ways to approach the East Face area, but the best way (and kinda the point) is to do one of the "Full" routes which makes for choose-your-own-adventure climbing connecting subsequent crags/routes up the mountain. Most of these options include starting on a route at either the Ashbrow or the Fringe.
There are multiple descent options including rappels and walk-offs. It's possible to walk off after the top climbing pitch. You can also scramble down to the west from the summit and connect with the Calico Tanks trail which leads to Sandstone Quarry/Third Pullout.
Walk-off southeast: From the summit, scramble back down toward the climbing to the base of an inside corner and head skier's right down a vegetated wash. After a ~150 yards, look for a shoulder on the skier's left (there are many shoulders, look for the cairn) and head east down to the upper Midway ledge. Once on the ledge head right/south. The Kragle crag is about 150' along the ledge and marks where to head down off the ledges (look for bolted climbs on a south face past the box-chimney route Double Decker Couch). Continue scrambling down ~300' keeping vertical cliff to your right until you reach the junction of your scramble and a vegetated wash forming a tight bushy notch at the base of the Overlook. Scramble down through the notch staying close to the cliff on the right for ~70', then sharp left down into the vegetated wash to Ash Canyon floor. This is the reverse of the approach to the Kragle/Midway Crag.
Rappel option: Rappel the route you climbed to the Midway ledges. Walk off right/south for ~500' to the base of the Kragle (look for bolted climbs on a south face past the box-chimney route Double Decker Couch). Continue scrambling down ~300' keeping vertical cliff to your right until you reach the junction of your scramble and a vegetated wash forming a tight bushy notch at the base of the Overlook. Scramble down through the notch staying close to the cliff on the right for ~70', then sharp left down into the vegetated wash to Ash Canyon floor. This is the reverse of the approach to the Kragle/Midway Crag.
Getting There
Approach 1: Climb a two pitch route at the Fringe (I recommend Sendimental-5.10 sport, Hippie Vest-5.9 sport, or Conquer Divide-5.11 trad) and top out onto the ledge above. This is the lower midway ledge. Walk about 250' right/northwest to reach the 50' scramble to the route Spate, or 500' to Midway crag and climb one of the routes that tops out on the upper ledge below the start of the route Disclosure. Alternatively, at the top of the Fringe, scramble 50' to the upper ledge (also the base of the Kragle) and walk/scramble the 250' or 500' along the upper Midway ledge to your chosen route to Tank peak.
Approach 2: Approach as for the Kragle (which scrambles up a wash to the left of the Fringe reaching the Midway ledges) and continue along the ledge to your chosen route.
Classic Climbing Routes at Tank Peak, East Face
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