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Straight Outta Squampton
V10- YDS 7C+ Font R
Avg: 4 from 3
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Routes in Straight Outta Squampton Boulder
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Straight Outta Squampton V10- 7C+ R |
| Type: | Boulder, 20 ft (6 m) |
| GPS: | 49.68096, -123.15049 |
| FA: | Jason Kehl |
| Page Views: | 467 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | James Braithwaite on Aug 1, 2023 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
One of the Crown Jewels of Squamish highballing
Stand start on the stack of rocks reaching up and back to a crimp about 10 feet above the ground. Make moves through the dike to reach a sloping rail and pinch.
From here make the hardest moves in order to reach a good rail to the right.
Get set up on a decent flat horn and a 1/4 pad mono crimp and prepare for a wild dyno to the lip to a great incut just below the lip, or a juggier edge a few inches higher. Perform an easy but sloping top out to finish.
Good luck, and don’t miss the pads.
Just above the lip there are bolted anchors for top roping (bring a tarp to protect your anchor from the lip of the boulder) and 10m up the slab of the boulder there is a large tree to rig another line down (as of August 2023 there is a decent condition 11mm dynamic rope rigged for solo top roping the upper moves, the rope is too thick to use an ascender on)
The best method for working this boulder is to bring a normal size rope and descend the large line attached to the tree in order to rig a top rope from the bolted anchors so you can jug or ascend it as necessary.
Working the moves on and to the left of the sloper rail is extremely challenging due to the overhang of the boulder and the fact that the holds are far left of the anchor. You will likely need a partner to pull you in if you are just on the rope with a grigri or will have to have someone belay a full top rope set up so you can safely try the moves from the ground without pads.
Beta video (Front angle): https://youtu.be/dWc6hd3zgDY?si=orQwPyBXVpDfMxhc
Beta video (Side angle): youtu.be/5b1CA7qoWE8?si=5p_…
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