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Grand Wall Boulders Climbing
| Elevation: | 181 ft |
| GPS: |
49.68144, -123.15166 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 190,674 total · 2,566/month |
| Shared By: | Hans Bauck on Apr 21, 2017 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED SEPT 20th 2021
Details
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes are currently closed until further notice. Existing closures will remain in effect through the winter, as changing temperatures and weather events may trigger more debris to fall in areas where rock falls have occurred recently.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
A new rock fall occurred Sept. 20th on the Zodiac Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: all routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Angels Crest on the Lower Zodiac Wall.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
DARK SIDE BOULDERING CLOSURE
The debris field from the Sept. 20th rock fall reached the Dark Side bouldering area, and this area is now closed.
GRAND WALL CLOSURE
The base of the Grand Wall (between Sense of Urgency and Commando Crack) and all trails leading to these areas. This includes climbing routes such as Java Jive, Coyote, Flex Capacitor, Commando Crack, Movin’ to Montana, Knacker Cracker, Teenage Wasteland, Exasperator, Peasant’s Route, War of the Raptors, Cruel Shoes, The Flake, Apron Strings, Sunday Whites, and Sense of Urgency.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
All Bouldering areas between but not including Cacademon Boulder and Titanic North have also been closed. This area includes: Gilligan’s Island, Mantel Madness, Undertow, Lipsmack, Superfly, Octagon, Black Dyke, Viper, Thighmaster, and Survivor.
Boudlering Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
A very large rockfall recently occurred where the Western Dihedrals meet the Grand Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: Deadend Dihedral, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
SLHANAY CLOSURE
All routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather.
Slhanay Closure Area Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
A new rock fall occurred Sept. 20th on the Zodiac Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: all routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Angels Crest on the Lower Zodiac Wall.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
DARK SIDE BOULDERING CLOSURE
The debris field from the Sept. 20th rock fall reached the Dark Side bouldering area, and this area is now closed.
GRAND WALL CLOSURE
The base of the Grand Wall (between Sense of Urgency and Commando Crack) and all trails leading to these areas. This includes climbing routes such as Java Jive, Coyote, Flex Capacitor, Commando Crack, Movin’ to Montana, Knacker Cracker, Teenage Wasteland, Exasperator, Peasant’s Route, War of the Raptors, Cruel Shoes, The Flake, Apron Strings, Sunday Whites, and Sense of Urgency.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
All Bouldering areas between but not including Cacademon Boulder and Titanic North have also been closed. This area includes: Gilligan’s Island, Mantel Madness, Undertow, Lipsmack, Superfly, Octagon, Black Dyke, Viper, Thighmaster, and Survivor.
Boudlering Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
A very large rockfall recently occurred where the Western Dihedrals meet the Grand Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: Deadend Dihedral, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
SLHANAY CLOSURE
All routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather.
Slhanay Closure Area Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
A world-class bouldering area at the base of the Chief, situated in a magical forest. The bouldering stretches from the pay campground all the way to the apron, with standout boulder problems and some great sport lines.
A great place to be in the summer, because it's always shady and cool, and you'll need those cool temps to stick the myriad of slopers on the heelhooking lip traverses scattered throughout the area.
Typical of Squamish, the problems are normally not very high, but despite this the landings can be sketchy because of the many rocks and roots. I like to have a few smaller pads to cover roots and rocks and to fill in gaps as required.
A great place to be in the summer, because it's always shady and cool, and you'll need those cool temps to stick the myriad of slopers on the heelhooking lip traverses scattered throughout the area.
Typical of Squamish, the problems are normally not very high, but despite this the landings can be sketchy because of the many rocks and roots. I like to have a few smaller pads to cover roots and rocks and to fill in gaps as required.
How do I find the problems?
Well, first you'll have to park. Unfortunately Squamish is getting very busy these days, and finding parking in the summertime can be difficult, especially on weekends.
The Grand Wall boulders are quite the maze, and finding your problem can sometimes be difficult. I highly recommend buying the excellent guidebook Squamish Bouldering by Marc Bourdon from one of the local climbing shops. This book includes excellent maps of all the bouldering areas in and around Squamish, and includes a list of Top 100 problems that will keep you busy for a long time.
Baring that, the areas on these Mountain Project pages are organized by their access from south to north, with ties broken by sorting from west to east.
The Campground boulders make up the area furthest south of the Grand Wall boulders, and are segregated from the rest of the areas. They are accessed from behind the cooking shelter in the campground itself.
The remaining areas are all closely grouped. The Titanic trail is the southernmost trail and leaves from the northernmost end of the higher parking lot. This accesses the Titanic, Survivor, and Thighmaster areas.
The other trailheads are accessed from the old road known as Psych Ledge. The first trail along Psych Ledge is the Black Dyke trail and leads to the Black Dyke boulder, providing access the Black Dyke and Viper areas.
The second Psych ledge trail is the Superfly/Grand Wall trail and is recognized by a BC Parks sign. This accesses the Superfly, Octagon, Mantel Madness, Lipsmack, and Easy Chair areas. This trail continues up to the base of the Grand Wall to access routes such as Exasperator.
The third Psych ledge trail is the Animal Magnestism trail and begins just past an outhouse. This accesses the Animal Magnetism and Heartbreak Hotel areas, as well as the Cacodemon Boulder where the route Dreamcatcher 5.14d is located. Continue up along this trail leads to the Gilligan's Island, Ride the Lightning, and Wendy World areas.
Further along Psych Ledge accesses the Apron boulders.
The Grand Wall boulders are quite the maze, and finding your problem can sometimes be difficult. I highly recommend buying the excellent guidebook Squamish Bouldering by Marc Bourdon from one of the local climbing shops. This book includes excellent maps of all the bouldering areas in and around Squamish, and includes a list of Top 100 problems that will keep you busy for a long time.
Baring that, the areas on these Mountain Project pages are organized by their access from south to north, with ties broken by sorting from west to east.
The Campground boulders make up the area furthest south of the Grand Wall boulders, and are segregated from the rest of the areas. They are accessed from behind the cooking shelter in the campground itself.
The remaining areas are all closely grouped. The Titanic trail is the southernmost trail and leaves from the northernmost end of the higher parking lot. This accesses the Titanic, Survivor, and Thighmaster areas.
The other trailheads are accessed from the old road known as Psych Ledge. The first trail along Psych Ledge is the Black Dyke trail and leads to the Black Dyke boulder, providing access the Black Dyke and Viper areas.
The second Psych ledge trail is the Superfly/Grand Wall trail and is recognized by a BC Parks sign. This accesses the Superfly, Octagon, Mantel Madness, Lipsmack, and Easy Chair areas. This trail continues up to the base of the Grand Wall to access routes such as Exasperator.
The third Psych ledge trail is the Animal Magnestism trail and begins just past an outhouse. This accesses the Animal Magnetism and Heartbreak Hotel areas, as well as the Cacodemon Boulder where the route Dreamcatcher 5.14d is located. Continue up along this trail leads to the Gilligan's Island, Ride the Lightning, and Wendy World areas.
Further along Psych Ledge accesses the Apron boulders.
Classic Climbing Routes at Grand Wall Boulders
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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