Grand Wall Boulders Climbing
|GPS:||49.681, -123.152 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Hans Bauck on Apr 21, 2017|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
COVID-19 - Follow BC travel and medical guidelines. The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to Provincial Travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and Health Authority directions for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
Parks Closures and Day Use Permits Parks were closed in 2020 then a day use permit system was instituted in some places. Please check Parks and Rec Site Closures for up-to-date information. Specifically, for the Stawamus Chief before using to ascend or descend for climbing.
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary, This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· the whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· the Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· the dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping.
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
A great place to be in the summer, because it's always shady and cool, and you'll need those cool temps to stick the myriad of slopers on the heelhooking lip traverses scattered throughout the area.
Typical of Squamish, the problems are normally not very high, but despite this the landings can be sketchy because of the many rocks and roots. I like to have a few smaller pads to cover roots and rocks and to fill in gaps as required.
The Grand Wall boulders are quite the maze, and finding your problem can sometimes be difficult. I highly recommend buying the excellent guidebook Squamish Bouldering by Marc Bourdon from one of the local climbing shops. This book includes excellent maps of all the bouldering areas in and around Squamish, and includes a list of Top 100 problems that will keep you busy for a long time.
Baring that, the areas on these Mountain Project pages are organized by their access from south to north, with ties broken by sorting from west to east.
The Campground boulders make up the area furthest south of the Grand Wall boulders, and are segregated from the rest of the areas. They are accessed from behind the cooking shelter in the campground itself.
The remaining areas are all closely grouped. The Titanic trail is the southernmost trail and leaves from the northernmost end of the higher parking lot. This accesses the Titanic, Survivor, and Thighmaster areas.
The other trailheads are accessed from the old road known as Psych Ledge. The first trail along Psych Ledge is the Black Dyke trail and leads to the Black Dyke boulder, providing access the Black Dyke and Viper areas.
The second Psych ledge trail is the Superfly/Grand Wall trail and is recognized by a BC Parks sign. This accesses the Superfly, Octagon, Mantel Madness, Lipsmack, and Easy Chair areas. This trail continues up to the base of the Grand Wall to access routes such as Exasperator.
The third Psych ledge trail is the Animal Magnestism trail and begins just past an outhouse. This accesses the Animal Magnetism and Heartbreak Hotel areas, as well as the Cacodemon Boulder where the route Dreamcatcher 5.14d is located. Continue up along this trail leads to the Gilligan's Island, Ride the Lightning, and Wendy World areas.
Further along Psych Ledge accesses the Apron boulders.
Classic Climbing Routes at Grand Wall Boulders
Days w Precip