Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

A world-class bouldering area at the base of the Chief, situated in a magical forest. The bouldering stretches from the pay campground all the way to the apron, with standout boulder problems and some great sport lines.

A great place to be in the summer, because it's always shady and cool, and you'll need those cool temps to stick the myriad of slopers on the heelhooking lip traverses scattered throughout the area.

Typical of Squamish, the problems are normally not very high, but despite this the landings can be sketchy because of the many rocks and roots. I like to have a few smaller pads to cover roots and rocks and to fill in gaps as required.

How do I find the problems?

Well, first you'll have to park. Unfortunately Squamish is getting very busy these days, and finding parking in the summertime can be difficult, especially on weekends.

The Grand Wall boulders are quite the maze, and finding your problem can sometimes be difficult. I highly recommend buying the excellent guidebook Squamish Bouldering by Marc Bourdon from one of the local climbing shops. This book includes excellent maps of all the bouldering areas in and around Squamish, and includes a list of Top 100 problems that will keep you busy for a long time.

Baring that, the areas on these Mountain Project pages are organized by their access from south to north, with ties broken by sorting from west to east.

The Campground boulders make up the area furthest south of the Grand Wall boulders, and are segregated from the rest of the areas. They are accessed from behind the cooking shelter in the campground itself.

The remaining areas are all closely grouped. The Titanic trail is the southernmost trail and leaves from the northernmost end of the higher parking lot. This accesses the Titanic, Survivor, and Thighmaster areas.

The other trailheads are accessed from the old road known as Psych Ledge. The first trail along Psych Ledge is the Black Dyke trail and leads to the Black Dyke boulder, providing access the Black Dyke and Viper areas.

The second Psych ledge trail is the Superfly/Grand Wall trail and is recognized by a BC Parks sign. This accesses the Superfly, Octagon, Mantel Madness, Lipsmack, and Easy Chair areas. This trail continues up to the base of the Grand Wall to access routes such as Exasperator.

The third Psych ledge trail is the Animal Magnestism trail and begins just past an outhouse. This accesses the Animal Magnetism and Heartbreak Hotel areas, as well as the Cacodemon Boulder where the route Dreamcatcher 5.14d is located. Continue up along this trail leads to the Gilligan's Island, Ride the Lightning, and Wendy World areas.

Further along Psych Ledge accesses the Apron boulders.

135 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Grand Wall Boulders

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 44
Fried Ant
Boulder
V0 4
 52
Summer Vacation
Boulder
V0 4
 38
Dyke Surfer
Boulder
V1+ 5
 39
Cheese Grater
Boulder
V2 5+
 27
Heartbreak Hotel
Boulder
V3 6A
 101
Titanic
Boulder
V3 6A
 27
Old and Serious
Boulder
V3 6A
 30
Crackhead
Boulder
V4 6B
 64
Sloppy Poppy
Boulder
V4 6B
 81
Easy in an Easy Chair
Boulder
V4 6B
 103
Superfly
Boulder
V4 6B
 39
Black Mark
Boulder
V4 6B
 39
Trad Killer
Boulder
V5 6C
 48
Viper
Boulder
V5 6C
 36
Timeless
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Fried Ant (f) Viper
 44
V0 4 Boulder
Summer Vacation (g) Black Dyke
 52
V0 4 Boulder
Dyke Surfer (n) Easy Chair
 38
V0 4 Boulder
Cheese Grater (g) Black Dyke
 39
V1+ 5 Boulder
Heartbreak Hotel (p) Heartbreak Hotel
 27
V2 5+ Boulder
Titanic (c) Titanic North
 101
V3 6A Boulder
Old and Serious (f) Viper
 27
V3 6A Boulder
Crackhead (i) Lip-Smack
 30
V3 6A Boulder
Sloppy Poppy (g) Black Dyke
 64
V4 6B Boulder
Easy in an Easy Chair (n) Easy Chair
 81
V4 6B Boulder
Superfly (k) Superfly
 103
V4 6B Boulder
Black Mark (d) Thighmaster
 39
V4 6B Boulder
Trad Killer (p) Heartbreak Hotel
 39
V4 6B Boulder
Viper (f) Viper
 48
V5 6C Boulder
Timeless (b) Titanic South
 36
V5 6C Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Grand Wall Boulders »

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Photos

Video with Top 100 V4s and V5s

vimeo.com/88209386 Mar 7, 2014