High Tolerance

Rappelling logistics:

After walking down the short gulley by the cairn, there are 2 stashed ropes under the roof on the left.  The shorter rope goes on the bolt and a .4 in the crack roughly 20ft from the entrance gulley. Use this to get to the lower anchor on the rim. Look for the bolt with a chain at the lip. Clip the longer fatter rope here. Rappel down to the ledge with a bolt. Clove off the rope with slack to this bolt with a draw. Rappel to the saddle. Climb up to the saddle between the two tower summits. There is an exposed, dirty, 5.2 mantle. Rope up if you deem it necessary.

From the saddle of the 2 towers, scramble down to the visible set of chains. Rap from the saddle chains if you want to be safe.

You are now at the top of p4. Rap the route with a 70. Skip the rap at the base of the thin hand crack, p4, and continue to the top of the death block belay. Warning, this block is huge and looks sketchy. I’ve had 2 people simultaneously jump on it, and it doesn’t budge. However, use your own judgment. I will probably return to rebar it to the wall.

1 more rap gets you to the ground floor.

Stash water, snacks, beer, and unnecessary gear as you go.

On the crux pitch, it's nice to prehang 3 draws on your way down, except for the first one. 

P1: 5.11/- The Hollow flake move gets you off the deck, this is the shittiest hold on the route, pull down, not out. One more hard move and you’re onto easier terrain. Finish with the bolted flake to the handcrack. Belay at anchor.

Gear: 9 bolts, .3, .4, #2

P2: 5.12/+ The crux. Start with good face holds and stemming past 2 bolts. Hang a draw on the 2nd bolt and the one above the roof, the 3rd if you’re under 5’10”, or lazy, or both, such as myself. Some crack climbing will get you at the base of the crux. I place 2 purple Metolius at the base of the stem crack to feel all warm and fuzzy, yellow Z4s work as well. I place 2 more mid crux, so 4 total, if you double place at the start. Wild, sequential, insecure stemming leads you to the finishing crimp / bomber finger lock / handjam. Finish the route with a no-hands kneebar before the roof and tips, fingers and hands. Belay on the block.

Gear: 4 bolts, 3 to 4 purple Metolius / yellow z4s, 3-4x .3s, 2x .5, 3x .75, 1x #1, 1x #2

P3: 5.8+ From the belay block head left and up through some loose-ish rock, but easy. Clip the bolt and pull over the roof; there’s a hidden jug inside ow. Continue up easy crack and face till you traverse right towards the base of the crack of p4. There is a very hidden tan bolt that protects the traverse. Belay at chains.

P4: 5.11 Thin hands to hands. Enjoy!

Gear: 2x .75, 2x black Metolius, 3x #1, 1x #2

P5: 5.4 scramble up the summit, hopefully there is still boiling hot whiskey left.

Rap to base of saddle and jug out.

See Good Water Tower approach beta.

The route is in the shade till late afternoon. 

3 lockers for fixed lines

10 draws, 4 runners

4x Purple Metolius / yellow bd z4 / green c3.

3-4x bd .3

2x .4

2x .5

3x .75

2x black metolious

3x #1

1x #2

1x 70m rope ( could probably rap with 60m ) 

This is the sending rack I used, feel free to bring more.