Junk
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 33.98841, -116.16226 |
| FA: | Todd & Donette Swain 07-2023 |
| Page Views: | 247 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Gunkswest on Jul 21, 2023 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Start in a chasm around and just right of the bolted face of Chinese Kayak. This chasm can be reached by climbing the righthand start of Chinese Kayak (up the gully/chimney past the chockstone), or by scrambling up through the boulder starting further to the right.
Once in the chasm, you'll see an obvious, slightly left-leaning hand crack in a corner. Climb the crack up and left to easier ground and the communal anchor atop Chinese Kayak. Rappel from the anchor with at least a 50m rope.



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