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Routes in John Yablonski Rock

Barkhorn T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chinese Kayak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hartman T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Heartbreak Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Meteorite Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rawl T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: Bruce and Denise Christle, May 1990
Page Views: 957 total · 5/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Feb 26, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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19 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

This is a beautiful though short crack on a a low angled slab easily visible from south Cap Rock. The climb begins at a short bulge to gain the crack. The crack ends at the top of the slab and it is possible to set an anchor directly above the crack or to move right onto a comfortable ledge above the slab.

The crack is clean and beautiful on the slab, making it worthwhile despite being very short. A good route for beginning leaders.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Pro to 2" for the crack. A larger piece may be useful for anchors.

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C Miller
CA
  5.5
C Miller   CA  
  5.5
This attractive splitter would be an ideal first (gear) lead. Two stars out of five. Apr 11, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
5.5
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
5.5
I'll second Chris's comment. I have personally takin quite a few begining trad leaders there because it is in fact a great one to get started on. Protects well and has a good place to learn about placing anchors etc... Also, it can easily be soloed by a more experienced leader in order to help facilitate proper placing of the pro. Inspect as you go............. Apr 11, 2005
Steve Powell
  5.5
Steve Powell  
  5.5
agreed. it's a fun little climb. I've led it twice and followed it once. too bad it's not longer. Apr 11, 2005
mmurduff Mic  
5.5
The shallow angle and short length of this route does make it a good choice for new leaders. Not to mention the easy approach and walk off (to the climbers right).Protection can be placed before pulling into the crack. An anchor can be built from almost anything. For example, I used four tricams. Nov 29, 2005
Josh Cameron
California
  5.6
Josh Cameron   California
  5.6
A great first lead. I'd like to give it more stars but its just so damn short. Jan 26, 2015
Jeff K
 
Jeff K  
 
This route was much more fun than I anticipated. Getting over the bulge is made easy by the abundant ledges for your feet at the base of it. The route offered good finger jam practice, too. The only thing that caught me off guard was the part where you reach the flake, just before the top, the crack thins out and is hard to protect while the feet get a little slick. Nothing too major, but something maybe to keep in mind with a brand new leader. The walk off was easy, with some body stemming. May 13, 2018

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