Just Another Crack
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 37.1933, -113.6454 |
| FA: | J. Visser, M. Kindred |
| Page Views: | 219 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Lucas Marin on Apr 30, 2023 |
| Admins: | Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Description
Start in the slightly overhanging offwidth corner. There are some helpful features on the face to stem up. Get a good chicken wing and grovel up the first 15-20 feet. Questionable crimps here and there outside the crack. Eventually get some thin hands, then hands. The crack widens a bit at the top and flares, making the jams less secure than you would like. Look on the face! Get inside the flaring slot and top out.
Pretty good, with some suspect rock in places. Place your gear thoughtfully. The crux for me was the offwidth start. The top was tricky where the crack flared.
Protection
Todd Goss' guidebook is mistaken in my opinion on this one. He says to bring "large pro to #4." I had a single #5 which was tipped out to protect the start. If you want to place protection in the first 15 feet, bring a #6. Additionally, there is no "2-bolt sling anchor" at the top that I could see, so I traversed to the anchors on Hair of the Dog to lower.
My rack was #5, #2, #1, #2, #3, #3, orange metolius



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