Big Science

A classic, that I have not yet climbed. Bob Parrott and Jeff Butterfield almost made the FA years before. Mixed climbing at the bottom, thin ice, then the fatter chimney section, and free-standing pillar of WI4. Second pitch is more mellow.

Getting there in winter for ice, with snow in the ground, is different than going for rock the rest of the year. Drive to the World Traveler Signpost, via Route 35. If coming from the south, Portland is 1 hour 20 minutes away from the signpost. Turn north (right) on Route 35 North/Route 5 North. Drive on Route 5 for 3.3 miles past the signpost. Double back on for to the Crooked River (which should have been crossed twice while driving -- confusing, since there are many brooks that branch off from Crooked), just past which there is a snowmobile trail. Keep going and the cliff will become visible. The trail forks, but both lead to the crag. A chimney left of cliff's center, which is accessed by a going over the talus at the bottom. GPS coordinates are likely 44.288703, -70.793510, more or less.

Screws.