Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
GPS: 45.59313, 7.39332
FA: N. Giovenzano, N. Margaria, G. Grassi, 1985
Page Views: 262 total · 7/month
Shared By: Mulch on Jan 22, 2023
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Pitch 1 climb the WI3 pitch to a bulge where you'll pull a pretty secure M4 move over a boulder using the rock edges out left and right. Gear maybe 3 feet below you when you pull the move. Take the Slab out left past a bolt. Bolted belay.

Walk the snow slope.

Pitch 2 climb the narrow WI3 gully up to a snow ramp beneath the crux Pitch (crux in the conditions we had) Bolted belay.

Pitch 3 climb up the WI3 ice to the vertical rock wall. In the conditions we had there was an ice candle in the corner and ice on the lip at the top. Good cams can be had out left in a crack if needed otherwise ice screws about a meter below is all you have for pro. Get high enough to swing your tools into the flat ice above. Trust your tools! Felt like an M5 move to be honest. Pretty tough in lean conditions. Bolted belay.

Pitch 4 climb up the ice gully and take the right variation. WI4- climbing up into the narrow slot. Clip the pin in the slot and pull some M4 moves over the lip. Bolted belay.

Pitch 5 climb up the seemingly cruiser snowy boulder pitch until you hit two boulders not wide enough to chimney through. You'll see this below a large pine tree with tat around the trunk. Surmount that spot at around M3-M4 and you're finally atop the gully. Tree anchor.

You can rappel the route but it'd be faster to top out and follow the well beaten path skiers right of the climb. Walk off around 45 minutes.

Location Suggest change

WIP

Protection Suggest change

8-10 screws, maybe a stubby, depending on conditions cams from .75-3 and nuts. We climbed w/out rock pro and the third pitch was pretty sketchy in dry condition.

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