Type: Sport, 110 ft (33 m)
GPS: 37.32239, -107.83404
FA: Mike Patz
Page Views: 448 total · 12/month
Shared By: Kyle Edmondson on Dec 27, 2022
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Lost in Space is a variation to Space Boy Elroy that is more difficult and sustained. It eliminates the sit down rest before Space Boy Elroy's crux and adds a harder crux finish, done with a substantial pump. Climb Space Boy Elroy for 8 bolts or so to where Space Boy Elroy steps right to a rest. Head left here. 3 bolts of 5.12 climbing leads to the crux, a V9 boulder to gain the slab. Alternatively, it can be done by the Space Man Ephraim start, eliminating the first rest and increasing the pump factor. This line will be 5.14a and will be called "Space Cadet".

Of note, climbing Lost in Space up to the boulder crux and ending there (this ends before the one non-permadraw that is skipped on redpoint) is a great option. This is solid 13a and called Space Baby" if starting on Space Boy Elroy and is 13c and called "Space Toddler" if starting on Space Man Ephraim (assuming you do not step down to the slab and take the full rest on Space Boy Elroy). Space Baby is one of the best 13a routes in Durango and a worthy objective by itself. It was decided that a second anchor bolt was unnecessary as the upper section has permadraws so you will lower with a back up.

A note on the grade: I put this in as a proposed grade. I thought Patz agreed when he sent it, but after talking to him and others working on it, we are bumping the grade to 14a. This route is still unrepeated but has had enough people working on it to start building a consensus. If you send and want to downgrade, add it to the comments.

Location Suggest change

Start on Space Boy Elroy or Space Man Ephraim, and head left a little past halfway. Much of this route has steel permadraws (likely the whole route will eventually).

Protection Suggest change

Bolts.

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