Type: Ice
GPS: 44.17772, -71.68912
FA: Will Gadd and Chris Marks (Jon Sykes and Jamie Cunningham)
Page Views: 351 total · 9/month
Shared By: Samuel Goley on Dec 20, 2022
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Approximately 100 feet past the Amphitheater you will find the Hermit Haven area consisting of some mixed routes and lots of hanging daggers. At the far end of this area, there is a  right facing ramp of ice leading to a short ice pillar. The route takes you up this ramp into a cave that is segmented by the ice pillar. If it's not choked up with ice, you will see a window up and out of the cave (taking you behind a large piece of rock). Funky feet can make pulling through this window a challenge. Once through the window, an ice curtain to the left will take you to the top. Frozen turf makes the top out less sketchy. Some old tat and two non-locking caribiners are attached to a small hemlock at the top. Use your own discretion when rappelling on this fixed gear. 

As a note: This route appears in the Wilcox Ice Guide with a very short description that reads: 

"EYE OPENER 5 - This is a variation just right of the Hermit's second pillar. Rare to see it form in its original condition. Will Gadd & Chris Marks, February 22, 1998"

I am reluctant to even call this route "Eye Opener" since it is clearly a different, and easier, variation to the original Will Gadd route. Jon Sykes informs us that the Will Gadd FA was done when the cave was completely choked up with ice and a free hanging pillar formed over the chockstone. Climbing the route utilizing the cave and window to gain the curtain behind the chockstone was originally accomplished by Jon Sykes and Jamie Cunningham several years earlier. only choose to enter it under this name because it appears in the Wilcox guidebook (as well as the new Dogarf guidebook) as such. 

  

Location Suggest change

Pass the Ampetheater and continue to the next area (Hermit Haven) about 100 feet up the trail. The route is at the far end of this area and is marked by a right facing ramp to a large pillar

Protection Suggest change

Screws (heavy on the stubbies)

Photos

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